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Old 08-28-2008, 05:45 PM
  #11926  
donkey doctor
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Hello Wild; Sounds good to me. I think you can trust your tach, as that is about what I get with my 56, and atmospheric conditions must be similar although I'm on the Island and we all boast of the higher percentage of oxygen in our air. Rather then risk your fingers, you should read up on the reverse flip method of starting your Saito. It really works.
Old 08-28-2008, 06:09 PM
  #11927  
jorgy-Delta
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Tks Doc!

Chicken stick user, been bit before [:@]
Will do on the bump, use it for almost all my 2stk'ers.

Hey, you know Tim & Lorie LaLonde ?

For the rest of you, its true...They do have more oxygen in their air.

Bigger heads require.....

Old 08-28-2008, 06:22 PM
  #11928  
Capt Lou
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The way I would figure the size of your tank is to, first, determine the rate of fuel consumption per ounce per minute for your engine. Then, mutiply that by the number of minutes you expect to be in the air and add some for a reserve. I have a Saito 1.00 that burns about 1 to 1.25 ounces per minute. If I want to fly at least 10 minutes I need 12.5 ounces plus about 3 ounces in reserve. I put a 16 ounce tank in my plane.
Old 08-28-2008, 06:54 PM
  #11929  
Hobbsy
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You got it Cap, when a Saito is set up correctly you can figure 1 oz of fuel per minute per cu. in.
Old 08-28-2008, 09:40 PM
  #11930  
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Jim, you and others may find this interesting, I ran the 2.20 Monday on the WildCat 2/4 cycle fuel which has 18% all synthetic. I let it sit nose down for two days and then pulled the back plate with out disturbing the oil inside. After the two days everything inside was still wet with oil and there was plentiful supply contrary to my experience with other all synthetic lubes which drained off and left the inner surfaces dry. I saved the lube out of the crankcase in a, God forbid, shot glass and will take a picture later in the day.
So would you say all synthetic is any better or worse than a castor mix at this point?
Any reason to buy one over the other?

Am actually heading over to pick up fuel in the morning and the advice would be appreciated as Ill be buying a case or two and have my choice what I want
Old 08-28-2008, 11:48 PM
  #11931  
beaver180
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Just my 2 cents worth...

A little castor can't hurt ( 5% ) which is what I run, castor gives you that bit of overheating insurance and shouldn't gum up in your engine or valves if you run it regularly or store the engine in ATF for long periods.

Paul

Old 08-29-2008, 05:36 AM
  #11932  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Hiya beaver and agree with you.I've been running the same mix this last week or two in my 62,i chickened out of using all synthetic after lot's of 'advice' from saito club members here who mostly run half or all castor and say "what you talkin bout willis"!!..what?..after run oil?? and i can hear hobbsy laughing from here.

Ps old papakura boy..you're on the wrong island..
Old 08-29-2008, 05:56 AM
  #11933  
beaver180
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Wrong Island [>:] what YOU talkin' about Willis??? Haha lol That's exactly why this is the MAIN Island!! Nice one you old fart, you made me evening.

There's a mate of yours ( another old fart ) at our that has a small ( 5o size ) 20 year old Saito that only lubes with castor and uses no nitro... motor still going strong as and he reckons he's never touched the valve clearances either! Mind you I don't think he flogs his motors much.

Cheers, Paul

PS Hard to get a good driving job in Perth?? Being a Kiwi... I'm looking for jobs there at moment. PM me
Old 08-29-2008, 07:28 AM
  #11934  
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SB, there is absolutely no difference in the way they run when comparing the 18% 80/20 to the all synthetice and I would have to run it along time to comment on engine wear. As it stands power wise, valve train noise wise and compression holding wise there is no difference. My 2.20 will sit several minutes at TDC on the compression stroke and still wack my fingers if I touch the prop and knock it off TDC. I actually check things, your turn to laugh OF
Old 08-29-2008, 03:48 PM
  #11935  
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Saito FA-100 Glow, I cant figure out what i'm doing wrong here.......I had this enging running twice for about 30 seconds each. Ever since that point I cant get it started. I've changed the glow plug, made sure none of my fuel lines were clogged, and the carb line was also connected to the clunker line in the tank, I thought maybe the rubber plug at the end of the tank where the fuel lines go in was loose, but I took it apart and tightened it up and the suction/pressure is good.......I guess i'm looking for ideas or suggestions, When I turn the prop I cant even see any fuel being sucked into the line to the carb. Thanks for the help in advance!
Old 08-29-2008, 04:07 PM
  #11936  
Michaelh
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Turn your High Speed needle out 3-4 turns yet?
Old 08-29-2008, 04:29 PM
  #11937  
ProBroJoe
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...and the angels did sing!

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Old 08-29-2008, 05:18 PM
  #11938  
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you say turn the high speed needle out......Lol I think I did but i'll check!
Old 08-29-2008, 06:09 PM
  #11939  
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AA, are holding your finger over the carb intake whit the carb fully open when you turn it over, that will bring fuel up to carb in a hurry and if it falls right back to the tank the needles are way too rich. Set the LS needle about 1/16th inch below the throttle arm and the HS 3 turns out from gently seated closed.
Old 08-29-2008, 07:18 PM
  #11940  
Michaelh
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you never know! didnt mean to offend you if I did.
Old 08-29-2008, 09:56 PM
  #11941  
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AAVN60
Is this a new or used engine? Sounds like you may have an air leak some were. I was having the same problem with a 150 and made ever effort to tune it. It just didn't work. I had met a guy at an air show a few months ago. His nick name is Mr. Saito. He mostly uses Saito engine and rebuilds them. The 150 was used...I bought it at a very good price and now I know why. He found that it had the wrong high-speed needle in it and the gasket or washer at the intake manifold was worn.

I know that the intake on a 150 and a 100 is different but check the metal casket (washer) were the intake manifold goes into the engine. He showed it to me on a 125 that I have. If you see a lot of the washer's edge sticking out that may be your problem. That washer which is very malleable starts to become loose after running the engine awhile. In time he suggested to replace it or turn it around.

The other alternative if you can’t get it is to take it to someone that know Saito engines. The cost for me to get the 150 running was $35.00 well worth it.
I hope that this info helps.
Shubova
[8D]
Old 08-29-2008, 10:08 PM
  #11942  
Michaelh
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I thought it mated up more like a union with no gasket at all? The 100 has the slip in O ring style right? Can be fixed with red silicone if thats the case on either or.
Old 08-29-2008, 11:30 PM
  #11943  
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Well I guess AAVN60 can tell us best. I misplace my manual but I know that my two 125's have as I said a metal ring or washer. It appears to be metal. Mr. Saito told me just to replace it or turn it around; if that is the problem.
You can put red silicone if you want, I have never used it so I don’t know if it would work but I wouldn’t think a new one would cost that much.
As far as the 150 I’m looking at the manual and there is something called the engine gasket set between the engine and the intake manifold. The set is show as two items but doesn’t say what they are made of. Possibly one is metal and the other is an “O” ring. So I’m assuming that that is what Mr. S replace when he fixed the engine. I would have done it myself but I didn’t know what the problem was at the time. All I know is it runs great now and for $35.00 I got it fixed and learned a little more about engines.
Shubova

I’m spending way too much time on this thread…I should be working on my new plane…
Old 08-30-2008, 08:05 AM
  #11944  
Michaelh
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Yeah you should
Old 08-30-2008, 11:14 AM
  #11945  
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ORIGINAL: Shubova

The cost for me to get the 150 running was $35.00 well worth it.

Glad your 1.50 is running good now. What did he do for the $35?
Old 08-30-2008, 11:45 AM
  #11946  
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well I got it running and kept it running for about 10 mins, I think I am going to get with someone at my local club to help me with tuning it......I dont have much expierence with fixed wing stuff. I'll check the gasket and get back to you!
Old 08-30-2008, 11:49 AM
  #11947  
Shubova
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First and foremost he figured out what was wrong with it.[sm=confused.gif]
He checked the high-speed needle and found it was the wrong one and replaced it. They run about 8 or 9 bucks.
Then he replaced the engine gasket set between the engine and intake manifold another few bucks and then tuned it. It runs great!
Those are easy things to place but you have to know what is wrong with it first. And I learn a little more about these engines.
Well worth the price.
Shubova
[8D]

...back to building!
Old 08-30-2008, 03:25 PM
  #11948  
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Hello all,

Somebody has a good recipe for cleaning the burnt oil stains from our engines ? (Without taking the engine apart).

Thanks,
Paul
Old 08-30-2008, 03:30 PM
  #11949  
Michaelh
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What ! No flying today? It was absolutely beutiful here today! A little Humid and the sweat was flowing but the wind was still . One of those perfect Dog days of summer scenario's

Thats around $7 worth of parts BTW.
Old 08-30-2008, 07:35 PM
  #11950  
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I'm sure it's in here somewhere, but real quick,,,
What size prop would be good for a a saito 91 to 3-d a U can Do .46?
Think my old OS FS90 had a 14x4???


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