lrr

Thanks to all for the encouragement, advice, etc.

Gary,

Wow -- Trona -- you get lots of flying days each year! I worked at China Lake in the late 70s, and know exactly where Trona is ...


Lee

gjeffers

yes i do Lee, matter of fact im heading out now to fly[8D]
showing about 58 deg and cloudy but nice and calm
thanks for not making a comment about the smell

Nickolas

Hi,

What is a recommended tank size to give around 8-10 mins flight with Saito 82? I just installed a 10 oz on my plane. I wanted the smallest availabe option as this is a 3D plane so weight matters a lot.

The problem I face is that the tank center line is at a higher level from the carburetor. Do you think this is a problem?

Looking forward to replies, rgrds.

Nick

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

[b]Nick:

Dialed in properly you should have 10 minutes plus reserve from a 10 ounce tank on your FA-82. Depending on throttle use you could have 15 minutes from it.

Some people have gotten away with it, all I can say is try it if you can't lower the tank.

Bill.

Nickolas

Thanks, so I could possibly use an 8 oz right? I used to have an 8 oz when I had an OS-70 Ultimate on the aircraft, I thought that Saito would consume more that's why I went for the 10 oz. Would you recommend to switch back to an 8 oz?

Nick

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Nick:

It varies depending on prop and the weight of the plane, but a Saito generally will burn one ounce per cubic inch per minute at full throttle when adjusted properly.

In other words, at full throttle your engine should burn a hair more than 0.8 ounces per minute at full load. If you don't spend the entire flight at 100% power you should have no problem getting more than ten minutes from your 8 ounce tank.

Bill.

Bipe Flyer

The larger Saitos seem to be more fuel efficient than the smaller ones. My Saito .30 gets less than 5 mins on a 6oz tank.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

BF:

Try leaning the LS a bit. Your 30 should do better than that.

Bill.

Bipe Flyer

The LS is an airbleed and I have leaned it a little, but it is still fairly new. I've got about 25oz through it. Here is a video clip of the first flight with a 4oz tank. As you can see, the engine quit at 3:02, but I had run it on the ground to do a range check and set the needle. I swapped in a 6oz and set my timer to 4:30 and when I landed there was very little to pump out.

http://donatelli.net/pittss2s25/Pitts-S2S.wmv

solafein

The flight fuel efficiency on all my Saito's aren't up to snuff. If I were more courageous and leaned the LS out a little I would do better, but I have never had to replace bearings in any model engine running them a little sloppy. I have 10 gallons through my .91 and it runs like the day it was installed, 2 years and an inestimable amount of 30% through my 1/8 scale with the original engine and about 20 gallons through my .75. I'll stick with inefficiency and longevity rather than scratching my head at the field wondering what went wrong.[sm=confused.gif]

gjeffers

20 bucks for bearings and you are gonna spend a hundred or more for wasted fuel? OKDOKEY
if your engines are tuned right you can have the cake and eat it too

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

The Saito feeler is 4 mils, if my memory serves me well, plus it has burrs at the edges which might be a problem. I bought a separate 2 mils gauge for this purpose.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

According to my micrometer and my reading abilities of it, the Saito feeler guage is .00325 and the Enya feeler guage is .002. Regardles of my micrometer reading skills or lack, the Enya is thinner. When I checked my 1.25 the other day it is set precisely at the Enya feeler guage setting from the factory.

iflynething

Ok, yeah thanks for that information. I don't think there is anything that clearly says in the manual what thickness the feeler is that comes with it.

My dad has some that you use for cars....alot of them, and I will use those, and set it to .002 later and see what happens. It's raining here, so might not be able to crank it up

~Michael~

Ernie Misner

Bill, are you sure that if the valves are set just a "little too tight" that it is not possible to start, run, and burn the valves or seat? I would like to think that I don't have to worry about that.

Thanks,

Ernie

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Ernie:

The early cams without the quieting ramp run fine at zero clearance, and will not burn a valve. These are the ones I have suggested 0.0005" settings on.

The later cams with the quieting ramps are optimum at 0.04 mm clearance, that's just a hair more than 0.0015" but a 0.002" feeler can be used with almost no difference in the engine run.

Even with the quieting ramps the engines still run well at zero clearance, but the idle gets just a little rougher.

If the clearance is set to a negative vlaue the valve stands open, there's no compression, and you'll not get it to start. I've never seen a burned valve in one.

Bill.

ecrt123

My Feedback: (12)

I have a Saito 72, and I replaced the head on it. I need to remove the valves and place them back in the new head. Just what is the procedure of removing and replaceing them on the new head?

Thanks

Ray

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I stick the head down over a sawn off broom handle so the valves will not open when I push down on the spring retainer.

I push the spring retainer down and remove the key with a scribe. Install the parts over on the new head in reverse order.

If you let one slip, the parts will go to kingdom come. I do it in a plastic bag.

Sometimes the valve will not go completely through the guide or the spring retainer will not come off because the valve stem is mushroomed. You will need to take the mushroomed metal off the valve stem.

Enjoy,

Jim

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

That's a slick trick, Jim! Not that I have ever had parts go flying into never-never land!

ecrt123

My Feedback: (12)

I got the spring and retainer off but the valves themselves do not just come out. It is like when they go to the bottom of the valve guide in the head they get stuck. Will I have to tap them out, and tap them back in with a dowel rod?

TimC

"Sometimes the valve will not go completely through the guide or the spring retainer will not come off because the valve stem is mushroomed. You will need to take the mushroomed metal off the valve stem."
It looks like you have the problem Jim mentioned ecrt123. Your stem ends are "shroomed". Take a jeweler's file and carefully file the flared edge off. I sure wouldn't pound them through with a dowel.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Ray:

That "Catch" as the valve drops through the guide is the "...valve stem is mushroomed..." that Jim mentioned. This is a small ridge, too small to see, that develops at the upper edge of the retainer groove. You can dress it off with some very fine paper, 360-400 grit twisted around the stem, or a jeweler's file held flat against the stem. When it's all gone the valve will slide out with no effort.

Since you are replacing the cylinder you'll hurt nothing to tap them out of the old one with a punch, but if you were going to use the cylinder again you should not. When the valve is pushed through without removing the ridge it will take metal from the guide, effectively many hour's wear with just the one pass.

Bill.

ecrt123

My Feedback: (12)

Thanks alot for the info. I filed the ends with sandpaper and it came right out and right into the new head.

Thanks

Ray

iflynething

I have yet another question:

How many turns out from all the way in are you guys running.

I'm out about 1 1/2 turns, but I know that's a little rich. I'm still breaking in my Saito!!

What are you guys running. What about the low end

~Michael~

gwulle

Fellows;
I am trying to find out if the flexable exaust that fits the Saito 180 will fit my 220. I have emailed Horizon,with no response. I cannot find any dimensions on Horizan's website or my maneul as to the size of the exaust port. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Gaines