GATTUSO2170

My Feedback: (4)

just using the included t fitings that came with the regulator and yes the regulator is in right behind the carb also re plumed the tank added larger tubing through the stopper barbs a biger clunk and biger fuel line. im at a total loss havemany four strokes saito and os and never ran into anything like this. tonight I cut the fuel tank holder out allowing me to move the tank up about a half inch still not centered but closer may try running without the cline I have played with the cline all week to no avail. im curently at a loss as to what elsei can do to get it to work

GATTUSO2170

My Feedback: (4)

the cline is not mounted just hangin between the motor and firewall wich jim said should be fine

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Yes I would check it with the tank centered and right behind the engine. This could possibly rule out setup issues.On the Saito engines info sight they suggest you could even tape a tank onto the side of the plane up close to the engine.

NotAnAceYet

My Feedback: (9)

Saito 72 Idle Problem!
I broke in my 72 on a test stand per the manual - all went well. I then mounted it in my Hangar 9 J-3 Cub which requires it to be rotated about 60 degrees - now I can't get it to idle. I've tried the stock plug and replacing it with an OS F plug - no difference. I'm running Powermaster YS/Saito 20% 4 Stroke Fuel turning a APC 13x6 prop. Top end at about 10,100 RPM. It idled fine mounted upright in the test stand. I've tried adjusting the idle setting to lean it out - it was dying at idle speeds as soon as I removed the glow stick. That made it better, but it would still die after idling for 10-15 seconds - I kept leaning out the idle in small increments until it was turned in probably 4 full turns. Was still dying, so I began to richen it up again. Bottom line is, no matter where I set it, it seems to die.
It seems as though rotating the engine has made it more sensitive. Any tricks or ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

GATTUSO2170

My Feedback: (4)

the fact that it is dyeing when glow power is removed would sugest that your main needle is rich try re taching it in the plane and then re ajust your low end also make shure your carb is close to the center of the tank and not way to low

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

What is the Idle speed you are trying for? My .82s will idle at about 2500 rpm right now.they are still breaking in.
If your trying for a low rpm you may have to wate. They key is to top your HS needle and set your low speed for the best possible transiton. As your leaning it lower your idle with it. When it stutters or dies on the transition richen it back 1/8th turn and turn you HS back 200rpms .
You fine tune your low idle from there with EPA /AFR on your radio , I have a real low idle set and a High idle set on mine.
You could be as high as 2700 rpm's on your first flights.

Rudolph Hart

Hi hobbsy,how are they hanging?

Just run the 82a for a third time and leaned it off.Getting 8900 compared to your 9250.The handbrakes not happy now i've moved the engine off my workshop bench and on to the saw horse you see.Clothes are covered in fuel because i've got to stand behind it and hook my toe round the right rear saw horse leg,because the whole contraption wants to vibrate forward and left,and it's a seperate wash i hear..mint throttle set up eh?

My 62 runs well on the ground but surges 3/4 hundred rpm in the air mid throttle,low speed to rich??

Rudolph Hart

Hobbsy meant to ask,twenty minutes ls needle setting?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Hey Pete, yes, I set set the LS needle pretty close to optimum at about 20 minutes into break in. The oil in clothes is good for your complexion where few people get to see. The .62 is such a consistent runner that it has to be something easy like the LS needle a little too lean, I'll bet you're real close on it, just a 1/8th turn lean or rich should do it.

As to the Cline, Jim Cline is right, it needs to be set back it was stock, good luck on that, my Cline will feed a SuperTigre 4500 so I don't think fuel starvation is the problem. The IronBay works on my Saito 2.20 but doesn't do well on the little .30.

NotAnAceYet

My Feedback: (9)

I think that might have been part of my problem. I had it doing pretty well around 2800-3000 on the low end - but kept trying to get it lower. Most of my experience is with 2 strokes - clearly FS is a different animal.

Paul_BB

The video is impressive ! But I'll keep the stock wheels !

Thanks,
Paul

mike early

Saito 125 continues to become more powerful even after 6 gallons (or more) of fuel and two violent crashes.

Uses less and less fuel the more I fly it. The idle becomes more stable. It can idle far below where I have it set.

Kinda like magic.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

With a 17-4 they idle so low it is scary

Rudolph Hart

Thanks hobbsy,it was me that blew it.Read heaps about people not leaning their engine off enough and i went too far,half turn out by the club saito whizz and heaps better.Revs faster than a haws draws dropping now.Spent all day racing around upside down with club mates and it's the queens birthday long weekend here so we can do it all tomorrow again..life can be good.

What are you flying right now?

sodbuster 1

Wow.

Pretty scary! Sounds and looks like a game of Twister! [X(]



It'll probably fly a lot better if you lose the floor jack!!



just kiddin'

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I'm currently flying a H9 XT 60 and a H9 Alpha 60, the XT wears a Saito 1.15 and the Alpha wears the 1.00 GK. I wanted to put the .82 on the Alpha but it just about fell through the mount. The Enya .90 stiuck too far out the front.

oktc1633

Hi all, I am from South Yorkshire, England.

This my first post.

I have a 56, two 62a and a 72.

All run fantastic but unfortunately one of the 62s has developed a problem.

I have rotated the carb 180 to have the needle valve on the opposite side.

But unfortunately fuel now seeps past the carb O ring and exits around the manifold.

Any info would be brilliant.

Regards TC

wessco

My Feedback: (7)

replacing the o-ring might be a good start.

oktc1633

Thanks for speedy reply wessco.

The engine is new and has only had approx 20 flights.

Regards TC

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You may have pinched or damaged the Oring?

Ken Cz

Hi Guys,
I really need some good help as I am wits end - about ready to put my Saito 72 out to pasture....for good.
It just won't run right!

I have Saito 72 about 5-7 years old and it has only about 2-3 gallons through it. Bought it used and it looked like new.

I'll skip the attempts of the last 3 months on trying to get it run and focus on the most recent.

I sent it to Saito to check out and they did the following:
1. Installed new engine and carb gasket-O ring sets.
2. Installed 2 new bearings.
3. Replaced connecting arm
4. Adjusted the valves gap setting
5. Said all was now fine - Not!

I am using Willdcat 20-20 YS fuel and currently I have installed a new Hangar 9/HH Super 4 stroke plug.

I have 12x8 Wood prop installed - was using a 13x7 APC on prior attempts.

The engine is mounted to a Seagull Harmon Rocket III. The ARF came with a 7oz tank so I replaced it with a Sullivan 11oz tank to get a decent run time.

I noticed some bubbles in my fuel feed line during my last attempt to fly/run so I replumbed the entire system, resealed the tank cap/fitting and today I did not have any bubbles.

I checked the valve clearance and it was good with a snug fit to the feeler gage that came with the engine.


The carb is reversed as recieved back from Saito. I ensured that the carb manifold pipe was snug to the cylinder head but did notice after a bit of run time that I can see the about 1/3-1/2 of the O ring seal at that point.
The engine is mounted rotated 90 to the right - muffler down - HS needle up.

After running I do notice a lot of excess fuel/oil on the engine, mount and surrounding area.

So here we are at todays attempt:

The motor starts up easily and runs with a low throttle setting.
It transitions nicely also.
I do notice some tendency to die when I removed the glow igniter so I run it up to top end, back and forth and it seems better.
If I throttle back within the the first 2 minutes or so it runs poorly and tends to stall.
If I run it at higher speeds longer and throttle back slowly it seems to run good although at a fast idle around 3800 rpms. Much less and it dies.
Today, after adjusting the HS to max RPM and them backing off 300-400 rpm I throttled back quickly and it died.

Then, I closed the LS needle a quarter turn at a time and it seemed OK, good transition and no tendency to die.

I then ran it up to max rpm for about 10-15 seconds and when I pulled it back to idle quickly it ran really rough, backfired (this has happened before) and actually pushed the plane backwards before stalling out.

I have made many attemps at the RC Club and had 2 very experienced glow guys helping me and no one can explain what is going on.

We have tried various HS and LS setting and still no success.

I am about to give up, as I have probably spent a bout $125 trying it get this 72 to run and probably spent 20 hours at the field and home double checking everything for leaks, went through 3 new glow plugs, etc. and still no success.

Can anyone help me out ?
Quite frankly, I am ready to sell it or put it out to pasture and buy a OS. This is my first Saito and to say the least I am very disappointed. My OS engines start and run all day long with absolutely no problems.

As you can see, I am very frustrated with this Saito and beginning to feel I just have spent way too much time and money on something not all that difficult.


Any help on how to resolve is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Ken Cz




Per my 2001 Saito manual I adjusted the LS needle to have a 1mm gap at wide open and verified by feeler gage.
I set the HS needle to 4 turns out per the manual as a rich start point.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Send it to me and I'll figure it out, honest. Check with w8ye and RCSpecialties for referrence as to honesty. All you'l be out is the postage.

RC Specialties

Ken,

It sounds like you have a couple of issues to address. First, you need to find out why the intake manifold is not seating. You should not be able to see the o-ring. This would be a source that could cause the fuel leakage on the engine. You have solved one potential problem with the air in the fuel line. Once the manifold issue is corrected, I suggest going back to basic settings of the LS needle and start with the HS needle about 3 to 3 1/2 turns out. Start a complete retune of the engine. Hobbsy and others have spelled out great procedures for this here in the forum. When tuning the LS make very small adjustments. Let us know how it works out.

Jim

Added Note: See page 478 for Hobbsy's post on setting the LS needle. When completed adjust the HS 200-300 rpm rich. Use a rpm meter for final HS adjustments.

Ken Cz

Hobbsy - Please see email/private message.
RC Specialties: Thanks for the input. I pull it apart again. When I start out it is fully seated as I installed but for some reason it seems to backout and expose O ring.

Thanks to a great bunch of folks! People like you help make this Sport the joy it is!!!!

Ken Cz - Oxford, MI

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Message sent, Thanks, Dave