w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Hobbsy has a 220 and a 150. He should be able to measure them?

Enjoy,

Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

This is what I measured on my 2.20 pipe where there are no threads.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Looks like 15mm to me?

The other big cylinders are 14mm

Enjoy,

Jim

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I just Emailed Brent at his Saito-Engines site that everyone uses.

This is his response....
Enjoy,

Jim

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

While we are on the subject of Saito mufflers, there is another odd-ball size....

The Saito 125 is 1/2"-20 SAE. It's different from everything else?

Enjoy,

Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, I never thought to measure the 1.25 pipe, but it sure has a big muffler.

gwulle

Thanks alot for the info fellows!! Now all I have to do is find a flexable exaust that will fit. Again,thanks fellows!!

Gaines

gwulle

Jim;
I just realized who you were when I saw your earlier post with your website posted in it. I down loaded your 4-stroke info some time back and it has been most helpful and enjoyable reading. I am realitively new to 4-stroke engines and your website has been a life saver!! Folks like me really appreciate what you have done!!!!


Gaines

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Gaines,

Have you tried the brass convoluted gas pipe from Home Depot?

I was flying over at Columbus, Ga before Christmas and two guys had used this stuff to make exhaust extensions.

I havn't been to the Home Depot store to look but these guys had sizes that fit the pipes perfect.

They silver brazed the brass to the steel.

It was flexed around and out the cowl.

The stuff is made like the Saito flex but you have to use your pipe ends.

Enjoy,

Jim

mlooman

Hi

I've got two Saito FA91 engines mounted on planes which have not been flown for two years. Didn't use after run oil, just primed them a little extra after the last flight (OK, hit me!), so the engines are both blocked now; it appears as if the bearings are fine, but the cam followers are/were completely stuck, thus blocking the cam. Probably corrosion of the brass (?) tubes in which they are fitted. Is this a known saito problem, and what is the best i can do to get the tolerance back in the 'green area' again?

Martijn


http://www.martijn.looman.tk

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Put some fuel in the crankcase and try to make it flow to the cam?

Remove the valve covers and coat everything with fuel and put some fuel down the rocker arm tubes.

See what you got? May take a few days?

If fuel is too expensive, just use some methanol or solvent of some sort.

Enjoy,

Jim

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I agree. Just flood it with penetrant. Like WD40; Break Free; Maltby; LocTite; 3M; etc. Take your choice.

I would remove the valve covers and spray it down the pushrod tubes and flood them. The penetrant will leech over into the cam followers. Spray it into the oil drain nipple again flooding the engine. It should work through the rear bearing into the cam gear. You could also remove the grub screw locking the cam gear pin in place and add some penetrant there so it leeches into the cam gear bushing to help free it up.

jlkonn

My Feedback: (1)

Martin,
I have a Saito 100 which is why I'm a member but...
I have a 20+ year old Enya 60 4C that I'm going thru.
I know they are built different but my lifters were stuck, stuck, stuck!
I tried everything until I finally took the cam cover off which holds the lifters and dropped it in a small cup of fuel. In a matter of an hour or so they became unstuck.
Fuel seems to work the best, which I guess is the methanol.
I don't know how much of a role the nitro plays.
Good luck getting your motors running again.
This thread is a great resource for help in getting them going again.
Oh, another thing I discovered.
When folks say to run the fuel out of them I always thought "yeah, yeah right...how much fuel could be left in the thing".
Well, I have started to run the engine dry after pumping the tank empty on my 1.00
It surprised me how long it would run.
There is enough fuel left in the engine to make it a wise thing to run it out.
Good luck!
JLK

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

JLK, I take the carb bracket bolt out of my Enyas and shoot Corrosion X in the gear box to prevent rust and congealed castor. I had really rusty gears in my .46 MKII and the Corrosion X solved the problem, then and ever since.

jlkonn

My Feedback: (1)

Hobbsy,
Thanks!
I really need to run down some Corrosion X.
I'll give a try when I do.
JLK

gjeffers

here is where to get corrosion-x JLK

http://www.corrosionx.com/marine.html

GSNut

My Feedback: (8)

Nr. 57 here...

Got a problem with my Saito 1.80 ??

Seems it doesn't want to run right after reasembly...but here's the story so far..

After a total loss of compression on my faithfull Saito 1.80 at the flying field a couple of weeks ago. Due to an ingestion of something during start up. (The engine did not start or run at all) Substance unknown, though it was a hard black and granular which held both valves away from the valve seats. Maybe 10 to 12 grains in total.

I returned home and disassembled the engine totally and cleaned and inspected each individual part. No scratches or pits were in evidence After all was to my satisfaction I cleaned and re-oiled each piece as I reassembled the engine.

After reassemble, I shelved the project untill today...


Finaly got out to the shop with the engine and here is what I found:

Though it still has the same easy starting that I have become acustomed to, It now does the following.............................

1. Where before with the same fuel and prop I have lost some 1600 to about 1750 rpm maybe a bit more, on the top end.

2, While running, the engine is spitting an extreme amount of fuel from the carb which it never did before. Now it coats the firewall of the aircraft and drips to the ground.

3. The throttle response is just a tad slow and the engine is running warm to the touch, Not Hot as in Saito four stroke temps.

4, Needle adjustment is peaky and not a broad adjustment on either the main needle or the low end.

5. Overall it just doesn't have the brute force that it had before..??

I will clean and check the carb..though the excess fuel from the carb while running does not lead me to think a problem lays there.

But Could it be that I may have miss timed the cam by one tooth or so..? I thought that I had the crank shaft at top dead center but maybe not ??

What do you think, William ?? Anybody ??

Thanks Guys

Doug in Denver

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I don't think they run that well with the timing off if at all?

Double check your timing?

Remove the glow plug and valve covers

Use a tooth pick or dowel in the glow plug hole to find top dead center on the piston.

There are two top dead center positions.

One position both valves are closed

Other position both valves are open an equal amount. If you find this not true, your cam is out of time.

Enjoy,

Jim

donkey doctor

hello, no. 12 here; A piece of grit that held both valves open. It does sound like the intake valve isn't closing completely, now whether it's because of incorrect timing or the vlave not making a good seaI would drip some fuel into the inlet port and see if it leaks into the cc, past the valve, check the rockers to make sure the valve is closed before you do that. That'll tell you if it's the valve or the timing.

GSNut

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks for the comeback, Jim !

Am there right now, installing my degree wheel to check duration against tdc.. though without knowing all the specs. it may not tell me what I need to know about this problem.

I can time a Honda VF1100s with no problem, but this one only has one cylinder..what makes it so difficult for me....? I sure don't know.

Cheeessh..It can't be that hard to do, Can it?


TA

Doug in Denver

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Doug (and Jim):

The engine will run with the cam one tooth off in either direction.

One tooth slow it wont give much power, and it will spit a lot of fuel back out of the carb. I suspect this is where you are.

One tooth fast it becomes a real bear to start, and wont idle well at all.

Bill.

GSNut

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks, DD !

Will Try that to.. though I didn't get any leakage on the pressure test during assembly, it could be possible. So is well worth a try...

TA

Doug in Denver

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

More:

With a bit of trash on either valve seat the engine doesn't have enough compression to start. My method for this is set the throttle wide open and spin the engine with an electric starter. Nine times out of ten the trash will blow out, you can hear the engine begin to fight the starter when it does.

For the tenth time that spinning doesn't cure, go to your local friendly auto shop and use their compressed air blow gun. At full throttle hold both valves open with your fingers and blow through the plug hole. Be careful doing this, when you push the valves open by hand you can let the push rods fall out of their sockets in the adjuster screws, and this will also hold the valves open. Another note - BE SURE TO TAKE THE PROP OFF before you do this, the piston will go to BDC, and the prop could hurt you when it does. When the piston goes to BDC one valve or the other will be held open by the cam, so to check you'll have to be sure the push rods are still in place, and bring the piston back up.

So far I've not had trash on a valve seat that wouldn't come out by one or another of these methods.

Bill.

GSNut

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks William !

I was leaning that way also. Needed confirmation though.
I wish there was a way to lock the crankshaft in place. Maybe there is and I just haven't figured it out yet...

Will get on it first thing in the morning.

TA

Doug in Denver

GSNut

My Feedback: (8)

Great Tip, William !!!

An I had both at the field that day...

Thanks Again !

Doug in Denver