Capt Lou

Mikecam:

Your engine ran fine for the first 15 flights but did you check the valves. I had a Saito 100 that ran great the first 15+ lights and then experienced sluggishness. It turned out that the valves needed to be adjusted. The Saito owner's manual mentions that you should adjust the valves after break in and this is a very simple procedure.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Mike Early,

I just got my November issue of RC Report today. The cover says that there is a review inside of the Saito 36 gasser by Dick Pettit.

Bob

mike early

Good heads up! I will find that magazine and purchase it.

Thanks

mike early

Good news! I doubled my # of Saitos tonight: Bought a never-ran FA-91S GK. A former club member was cleaning out his closet and had forgotten he had this engine. Said he paid 300 dollars back in the day. It has a bit of light rust on the prop threads but inside is bright and shiny. Golden Knights are good looking it appears!

It has the Velocity Stack. And a crazy choke-apparatus! Unfortunately, It'll be inside a P-40 cowling before too long and I'll have no access to the choke (or the pretty valve covers)

What are folks' experience with the velocity stack and the .91? Does it rob a wee-bit of power on that engine? Or maybe the smaller airflow required does not restrict with the stack?

Should I ditch the choke and add an O-ring in it's place, or leave well enough alone?

It is a shame all my 13mm assortment of exhaust parts do not fit.... The good news is I can gain some RPMs with the 12mm turbo header, no?

Do these engines still come with the choke? When did they stop installing these chokes?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Mike, I have removed every choke from my Saitos, it will necessitate an O-ring in place of the choke slider. The real problem with the chokes is that they put themselves on once in a while, not good.

Mikecam

Sorry Capt. forget to mention I did adjust the valves. .002 from what I read on here. After it cooled down I checked again to make sure I didn't leave something loose and all was still good. I'm hoping the new screw will help and if not then I'll take off the carb horn and see it that helps. I did it the first time and found the sweet spot right away so I'm puzzled at what could of changed. The horn is one thing but didn't think that could have effected it. Leaving it on the rich side the motor still ran fine, just couldn't get the crisp throttle response I was hoping for. Maybe I'm to picky.

RC Specialties

Mike,

Congrats on your new engine. It is a shame to have to cover up that beauty. It does have a 12mm exhaust. The P-40 is tough to fit an exhaust insidethe cowl, but it can be done. Call if I can help.

Jim

mike early

Thanks!
Iintially I will try the high-dollar flex pipe from Horizon It is a shame you don't have a higher quality and lower priced flex pipe!!

blw

My Feedback: (3)

The velocity stack should help the .72 a little bit. You may not see any power increase, but it should stop the carb from spitting fuel out.

mk1spitfire

had a good run on my 82 when later into the flight the power dropped off the top end and then cut. Too lean?

Rudolph Hart

Hello guys

Can someone give me an educated guess which way to go on the main needle for my 82 please?
It idles fine and transition is good.Wide open it turns 9100 9200 but after about five seconds comes back a couple of hundred revs,to lean or to rich?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

OF, its pretty universal, here are four pictures of tach reading on various engines, two stroke, fourstroke and Diesel. The TNC records the highest number and the lower number is the live one. They are in order Enya .50, Irvine .40 Diesel and Saito .30

bikermonkey

Word, just joined this Saito forum. I currently run a Saito 62 in Boxer, and 82 in a Ucando, and 125 in a Frenzy. Also have a OS 52 in a little .40 Ultimate and a YS 110 in a Fusion and finally a piped os50sx in a Kougar currently getting some fuse tlc. I see there is a lot of information here as in most of RCUni. I do have one question, has anyone flown a 17-4w on the 125, currently slinging a 16-6, but I like low pitch for my 3d birds.

moto-x

Sounds lean to me. Put at full throttle and raise the nose of the plane straight up. If rpm drops a little more ,it is for sure lean. Open it up a couple clicks and try again.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The APC 17-4 works very well on the 125 when used in true 3D manner. The prop also works very well on the OS 120AX

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Here I forgott I had this up. Here is video of the FG36 on the 110 Rascal , Enjoy!

[link=http://videos4321.s3.amazonaws.com/g36.wmv]G36[/link]

mike early

Thanks, Michaelh, I am downloading it now.....


I am looking for 3-bladed prop suggestions for a Saito .91
I understand folks with the Saito 100 have success with the 13x8... But I presume the 100 has more power than the .91

salerno

does anyone know of a way to reduce the wear on the screw that holds the carby barrle in onthe .82? mine keeps wearing away and effecting the tune as it wears. after 6 flights it has worn about half a mm, enough that it loses it low end setting. bloody anoying!

i also had a leak from the intake manifold at the head, tried new washers, tried gasket maker, kept on leaking, so in the end i epoxied around the manifold that seemed to stop it.

vibrations also caused 2 switches to fail within 1hr of flying!

My backplate was also leaking since new, again with the gasket maker.

I must say that the saito .82 does make alot of power for how much it weighs (have not been able to find another engine that puts out that much power and weighs the same) however i dont think they are enginered good enough. i know i will upset alot of people saying that, but this is just my experience.

The manifold should not be held in by the carby which is held on by a plastic back plate, why plastic when other engines in the saito range are aluminium? Why not seal the backplate with a rubber o ring like other brands? this motor has been anything but reliable and i know that most people say most problems are the operator, but it just shouldn't leak so early in it's life. and you should be able to buy an engine, tune it and fly! i have had problem after problem for six months with this engine. i just wanna fly! not tune every six flights cause the throttle stop screw keeps wearing out!

Again just my experience, dont wanna argue with anyone, just hope that somone at saito reads this and see what problems people are having then do somthing about it.

This is a massive forum with lots of useful info, but there are many on these pages who have problems and get fusturated!
Take note saito!

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Red silicone works good for sealing the leaky intake tube. I do it at both ends on my .82. Have not had any problems yet with it.
You can tighten the screw up as a temporary fix. Reduce vibration ?

salerno

Thanks micheal! i did use the red silicon on intake tube. screw has been turned in every direction till it was just about worn completly away! this is my third screw!

What i was saying is that there are various methods for sealing intake manifolds etc. but why should we have to do take on a brand new engine just to get it to work reliably? why dont they do it at the factory since just about every saito seems to be afected?
Or better yet why not make it so it gets held in by some screws?

We pay premium prices for these engines, only to get them home and start pulling them apart to seal them properly cause you know it's conna give you trouble if you dont! If it were a chinese knock off everyone would be complaining about it! my dl-50 only cost me $50 more than my .82 and has never had a prob! come on saito!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Sure would like to see a picture of that screw. My .82 is about 5 years old and no screw issue yet. Its spent most of its life on a Sig FoyrStar 60 that I built.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I have two 72's and one 82 and the screws look like new

salerno

I did actually try to take a photo to put on here but it just kept coming out blurry. Hey hobbsy, i know their are countless people who have had no probs with their saito for years and years. i dont think the screw issue is a common one, but i have tried changing the links and servo mounting to reduce play so there is no rubbing and are now using ball links on throttle, but still it keeps wearing. this engine has been on three models now too so i dont think it is a bad engine box design or such.
I still think it would not hurt saito to try and iron out a few little pieces, after all the design has been around for eons unchanged... does this mean they are arrogant? that they are so good there is simply nothing laerned from all these years making engines?
I am always of the opinion that nothing is ever perfect and can always be improved.

salerno

i dont know exactly what is causing screw to wear away, but do you think it's possible that the spring inside carby, constantly putting pressure on the barrel rubbing on screw from vibration is causing the wear? any indeas to slow the wear. i was wondering if screw is hardened?

stallwart

About the same time as the topic regarding the barrel guide screw came up, I noticed the same problem with my 72. The 72 has only been used for 6 months. I checked my 62 which was put into service around the same time, and it has the same wear on the screw. I've tightened the screws a little, and all is well for now.

I assume they are of a softer metal, since they are in contact with aluminum, but can't confirm that. I haven't removed any for inspection yet.

I have two 82's, one of which has been flown an average of 4 times a week for over 2 years, but have seen no problems with either of these engines with wear on the screw.