w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The mark you saw on the 56 crank is a spring pin used to locate the crankshaft gear. I don't remember the spring pin having having a described relationship with the cam timing. At any rate, you are correct about the 100 for the gear is made part of the crankshaft and there is no spring pin.

Below is a cut away of the 82 showing the gear as part of the crankshaft

s10junky83

I am still having problems with the saito 100! I had posted a couple pages back that it just dies when I chop it ffron WOT to idle on 30% coolpower heli fuel. I took the suggestions and have put 3 different plugs in (all new) with no luck until last night. HERE IS MY thing, I can keep the motor running perfect with the HS Needle at 3 turns out and the LS way rich. This thing seems perfect with alot more power at these settings!!!!! I just want to know if you guys think thats ok? Is there something wrong to make the motors need all this fuel.
NOTE: when I ran 15% coolpower this motor in a different plane mounted the same way ran with the HS Needle at 1 1/4 and the LS in past the plastic about 1 1/2 turns!!!!!! HELP ( the weather is beautiful right now, and I got the itch)

mike early

I am no expert, but I'd set the needles correctly. It sounds like it's so rich that when you chop the throttle the fuel keeps flooding in and the glow plug gets too cool and you've lost fire.

mike early

Started the break-in on my second Saito. Probably didn't break the first one in correctly. It took many gallons before the 125 started making the power that it's supposed to.

I presumed that my .91 would use as much, if not more, fuel than the 1.25, from the fuel consumption chart that is on the saito site. But: even running pig rich and not even broken in yet, the .91 uses way way less fuel than the 1.25. I remember the first few tanks through the 1.25: It was scary how fast the tank emptied. This .91 uses far....far less.

The guys at the field told me to just set it a little rich and fly it. Right out of the box. But, none of them have a Saito. So I didn't listen to them!

mike early

Cool cut-away photos, w8ye! You got one for every Saito??

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I have them in my gallery. Go look and see

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Good thing that you didn't. Just break them in like the manual says, and then go fly. It doesn't take much time or fuel to get them running pretty good and efficiently.

sodbuster 1

where did you get the cutaway pics?
Fantastic!

s10junky83

Do I not make any sense when I post? I posted twice this week and both times the answers made no sense!!

mike early

It seems very plain to me. Set the needles correctly. Then see.

s10junky83

the first post clearly stated that I had replaced the glow plug with no effect, yet it was suggested I change the plug. The second post stated that I only was able get the motor running correctly at the very rich settings and wanted to know if that was okay!!! You guys are great at this and I am just a rookie that needs your guidance and feel I am not being heard!!!

Thanks Matt B.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Did you try some different new fuel?

Old "BAD" fuel will only run in the rich mode

s10junky83

No its new fuel but it is heli with 23% synthetic oil!!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The cut away pictures came from the Saito Japan website. They were cut away engines for sale at one time.



http://74.125.93.104/translate_c?hl=...HueZQpVBYDZcSA

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

S10

Try some different fuel to eliminate the possibility that your fuel is the problem

Your problem is unique for us. This one normally doesn't come up.

30 heli fuel will go bad easily if it is kept under fluorescent lights or in the sun or such.

s10junky83

is this the first time you heard of this? I will tell you that I ran a few tanks of this with no problem then this started. I have read on here that some guys have to run these motors at these high settings before!!! Any ideas why?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Matt,

I have personally never experienced this phenomena. The only thing I know to do right now is to try one thing at a time to eliminate the problem

There may be something restricting your fuel delivery in the carb, fuel line, or tank? Take out the HS needle and pump fuel through the fuel line to flush out the carb?

There may be a pin hole, tare, or split in your fuel line? Are you seeing air bubbles in the fuel line?

s10junky83

No bubbles at all!!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Then there must be a restriction somewhere.

Try flushing your needle valve and if that doesn't work you are going to have to try fuel lines and or tank.

One big thing that gets everyone's goat are those plug in refueler valves. They get dirt in them that causes a couple different problems

I had a clunk line inside the tank that was sucking shut because it deteriorated from the fuel. You cold blow though it but not suck.

I also had a brass tube to break inside the tank stopper one time

Rudolph Hart

Adjust your valve clearances please

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Junkster, I use systems to analyze and set things. Lose the fuel filter, it is a source of trouble, set LS needle rich, set HS needle 4 turns out, prop for the mid 9s. At full throttle set HS needle for absolute peak and temporarily leave it there, procede to lean LS needle 1/8th turn at a time checking the transition and full throttle operation after every other change. At some point it will hesitate or quit when opening the throttle, richen 1/8th turn and try again, be willing to sacrifice a couple of hundred rpm on the idle speed to gain the best transition, the transition is more important than the lowest idle. When satisfied with the idle and transition richen HS needle down about 300 rpm and go fly. If you have some fuel other than the green engine killer, use it.

AV8RJIM

My Feedback: (16)

First I want to thank all of you for the very informative information you provide. I have a Saito 270 Twin on a 1/3 scale Flybaby. I want to use a Hub on the prop shaft so I can start with a electric starter. Can you please tell me what the specification for the prop shaft and thread type are and possibly what type of hub or very stubby spinner (cub Like) would work.

Thanks in advance for your help and information.

Jim

s10junky83

hey Hobbsy,

Why do they call it the green engine killer? I have used coolpower for two years in 2 and 4 strokes and this Saito 100 is the only motor thats had significant problems!

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

AV8R,
I have an early 3.00 twin, a close cousin (or little, but larger, brother) of your 2.70. The crankshaft thread is 8 x 1.25 mm.
It uses a Harry B Higley (google them) prop-lock as the first prop nut and washer combined. For a spinner, this is on a 1/3 Spacewalker, it has a 3" Dave Brown with a Dave Brown spinner adapter nut. The spinner adapter functions as a lock nut and a spinner mounting point. You may want a little smaller diameter spinner (Dave Brown, and I think Tru-Turn, will custom cut them for large props.) for your Flybaby. Tru-Turn also makes spinners in several styles. I have never used one and have no first-hand experience with them.
The Harry Higley prop-lock with spinner adapter nut has become my standard procedure with Saitos. The prop-lock is thin so it allows plenty of room on the shaft for the adapter nut. Even though it is thin, it holds well, and I have never had one strip and one must use a 7/8" wrench to tighten them!
Good luck with your 2.70. The 3.00s are very nice engines...very easy to start (back flip), very smooth, and surprising fuel-efficient.
Have fun.

mike early

I use Dave Brown prop adapters for my spinners. The .91 does not have enough threads to use the lock-nut. I've had a prop fly off in flight, so I really want to use a lock nut.
Harry B Higley makes a 7mmx1mm thin nut, but it will not work with the centering-ridge of the Dave Brown products.

What are my options?