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Old 12-24-2008, 06:15 AM
  #13251  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Mike is probably right slats,double up
Old 12-24-2008, 09:10 AM
  #13252  
Giln
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Hi all and Merry Christmas to you and yours,

Can anyone tell me where to get a Saito toolkit (feeler gauges, gear to set tappets etc.).
Bought my 82 2nd hand and it came with nothing.
Regards
Gil
Old 12-24-2008, 09:15 AM
  #13253  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Go to dick smiths and get a set of 'computer spanners' goes from 1.5 mil to 7 in a ten or twelve spanner set,good luck and cheers
Old 12-24-2008, 09:32 AM
  #13254  
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Giln,

I have an extra new set. Send me an e-mail an we can discuss it.

Jim
Old 12-24-2008, 11:53 AM
  #13255  
mike early
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Is it already Christmas in Australia?
Old 12-24-2008, 12:16 PM
  #13256  
pmillerusa
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Question about Fuel... seems it’s been discussed a lot here.

The LHS has Byron Fuels and a 15% nitro with straight Synthetic (16% I think). Would that be safe, or do I need SOME castor?

The other option they have is a Premium 4-stroke that has 18% Oil (according to Byron, 80/20 Synth/Castor - 12.8% total synthetic, 5.2% castor)

Otherwise it looks like I'll have to order something...

<edit> - in case you all aren't mind readers - this is for an FA91s...

thanks,
Old 12-24-2008, 01:26 PM
  #13257  
beaver180
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

It's Christmas in New Zealand already Aussie is behind us. And another 5 1/2 hours until Christmas in the US of A ( 0725hrs here now, kids been up since 0530.... yawn! )

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL
Old 12-24-2008, 01:41 PM
  #13258  
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Talked to my LHS today. He has Wildcat Heli, so I asked if he could get some Premium Extra in his next order. He launched into some long explanation about stocking fuel, order size, sales volumes, yada yada yada...bottom line, if I want Wildcat Premium Extra he'll order it but I'm going to have to buy a case.

Tried to find it online, but looks like Tower Hobbies is the only gallon-size dealer. $99/case, + $20 hazmat shipping (regular shipping rate waived). Ouch. $30/gallon, when Omega 15% is $22/gallon incl tax.
Old 12-24-2008, 03:44 PM
  #13259  
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I try to buy my fuel by the case when the price is right. I have about 3 gallons left from my last buy, and I hope prices drop by the time I need more.

Nothing wrong with buying it by the case if you store it right.
Old 12-24-2008, 04:16 PM
  #13260  
dirtrod
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Hey guys,

Does anyone have a special technique for setting the timing on a saito .65? I know to line the marks up, but when you get so far down you cant see them anymore. I just rebuilt it and it fires rite up. but has no top end like it is retarded a click. its idle is really low now sounds like it has a big cam. but no top end power. any help would be great.


thanks and merry christmas to all,

Ty (dirtrod)

Old 12-24-2008, 04:40 PM
  #13261  
w8ye
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Ty

You can check the timing with the engine mostly assembled except you need to remove the valve covers

Find top dead cent on the compression stroke. Note the position of the prop and turn the prop exactly 360 degrees. you are now in the valve overlap situation.

Both valves should be open exactly the same amount but one is closing and the other is opening
Old 12-24-2008, 04:44 PM
  #13262  
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ORIGINAL: blw
Nothing wrong with buying it by the case if you store it right.
What's the proper way to store fuel? I may just go ahead and get a case. What the heck, on less thing I'll need to worry about a trip to the LHS for.
Old 12-24-2008, 04:45 PM
  #13263  
w8ye
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On the intake valve part of the cam lobe there is a oil hole on the back side

When setting the cam timing. Stick the small end of a pushrod down through the intake cam follower hole and engage this hole in the cam. The timing dot on the cam will now be exactly straight down.

You can also engage the gear teeth of the cam with a razor blade or Exacto to hold the cam still during insertion
Old 12-24-2008, 04:52 PM
  #13264  
jmcmike
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Hey guys, new to the forums. Trying to figure out how much air needs to get to my motor. CMPro cub with saito 115 inverted, never had to worry about air before. Any help would be great! Last stages of assembly
Old 12-24-2008, 04:56 PM
  #13265  
dirtrod
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W8ye,

thaks so much for the info that seems a whole lot better of a way, i was almost guessing.Does it sound like i have it off?I flew today and it starts rite up and runs great with no hesitation but not much in the way of power. Im running a 11/9 prop?

thanks,

Ty
Old 12-24-2008, 05:08 PM
  #13266  
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Ty,

Check your timing with the valve covers off and let us know.

It could very well be off
Old 12-24-2008, 05:10 PM
  #13267  
w8ye
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try to make sure that all the air that enters the cowl goes by the cooling fins and head. you are not worried about the crankcase.

The air outlet holes need to be twice as big as the inlet holes
Old 12-24-2008, 05:18 PM
  #13268  
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W8YE, im trying to keep the cowl as scale as possible. There is two small holes below the prop shaft just not sure if its big enough. guess i could try and see if it gets hot
Old 12-24-2008, 05:54 PM
  #13269  
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You might post us a picture and let us discuss it?




I found the pictures. Those holes are not going to do any good. Is there a way to have the cylinder head sticking out
Old 12-24-2008, 06:25 PM
  #13270  
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ORIGINAL: pmillerusa

Question about Fuel... seems it’s been discussed a lot here.

The LHS has Byron Fuels and a 15% nitro with straight Synthetic (16% I think). Would that be safe, or do I need SOME castor?

The other option they have is a Premium 4-stroke that has 18% Oil (according to Byron, 80/20 Synth/Castor - 12.8% total synthetic, 5.2% castor)

Otherwise it looks like I'll have to order something...

<edit> - in case you all aren't mind readers - this is for an FA91s...

thanks,

=============


It depends upon the engines you are using and how they are constructed.

I wouldn't think that either fuel would be an engine killer if you ran the mixture rich enough, but I wouldn't want either fuel as it is were I running an engine with a bushed crankshaft or a meehanite piston in a steel liner. Ditto for 1/2A engines.

Not knowing which oil(s) Byron is using, it is impossible for me to say whether 16% is enough. If they used a heavier/more viscous oil, it could turn out to be just fine in most situations. I do know that a lot of modelers on the East Coast really like Byron's fuel. I've never used it myself and therefore have no experience/opinion, other than sharing in the enthusiasm that others have for it.


Ed Cregger

Old 12-24-2008, 06:33 PM
  #13271  
jmcmike
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thats the cowl but mine isnt gas so it dont have that big muffler cut out it just has the two holes under the prop. what do you think will itbe enough if i open up the bottom
Old 12-24-2008, 06:50 PM
  #13272  
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ORIGINAL: VF84sluggo

Talked to my LHS today. He has Wildcat Heli, so I asked if he could get some Premium Extra in his next order. He launched into some long explanation about stocking fuel, order size, sales volumes, yada yada yada...bottom line, if I want Wildcat Premium Extra he'll order it but I'm going to have to buy a case.

Tried to find it online, but looks like Tower Hobbies is the only gallon-size dealer. $99/case, + $20 hazmat shipping (regular shipping rate waived). Ouch. $30/gallon, when Omega 15% is $22/gallon incl tax.

-


Omega 15% fuel is just fine @ $22 a gallon.


Ed Cregger
Old 12-24-2008, 06:52 PM
  #13273  
jmcmike
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oops didnt see your post under the pics. no way to have the head stick out even on its side the tips of the rocker covers would only stick out. motor is know mounted inverted
Old 12-24-2008, 07:03 PM
  #13274  
dirtrod
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

w8ye,

I may not be able to check it tonight , tomorrow for sure. what prop do you recomend? the plane is a 40size twist
it used to have a st-45, i thought the .65 might be a nice change and just rebuilt it. fist time for me building a 4-stroke. I will let you know as soon as i check it. thanks so much for the time.
Ty
Old 12-24-2008, 07:03 PM
  #13275  
w8ye
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You might get away with cutting out the flat bottom part of the cowl where the cylinder head will be.

when the plane is on the ground this would not be seen


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