mike early

...Just do some HP divided by Ounces action and get a good comparison number.

Then post the info here so we can enjoy it too!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Pounds of thrust will vary according to the prop you use

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

Yep Y8YE, that's what I posted on the previous page but I didn't want to sound like Captain Obvious

I'm thinking it's around 7-7.5 lbs with their recommended prop but I may have to experiment with prop brands.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Use this with Excell or Opensource Office

http://mvvs.nl/prop-power-calculator.xls

mike early

Went to the field today, since the weather was nice.
Started my new (to me) 125 and was into the process of running it in and tuning.
Starts to sound funny. Or maybe it was my imagination.... But soon afterwards it seized. Woe is me!

It appears that one of the ceramic balls in the large bearing has disentergrated. It was obvious upon installing the ceramic bearings that there was more play than normal. But I'm still a noob and thought it was acceptable.

Jesus. What a mess. It appears I need a new crankcase, piston rod, piston, ring, and cylinder. New engine would be cheaper.

I might as well see if I can fix it. Certainly nothing to lose. I'll dremel down the burrs enough for the crank to rotate freely. I'll wet-sand and buff the piston skirts so the piston will fit inside the cylinder again. The grooves in the cylinder walls are here to stay. I'm sure I'll lose a percentage of the compression but maybe it'll still have enough power to fly more scale than I usually like to fly, anyways...

At least I kept the perfectly good stock bearings...

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Good luck with your miss fortune with the 125 and new ceramic bearings

jdkxtreme

I got my goldberg cub out of the box tonight and started putting it together.." Worst covering job I have ever saw"..I am going to use my saito fa80...My questions are..
1 I am going to mount it inverted..Do I need any kind of stack on the carb?
2 How much of the cowl has to be removed for cooling? Looks like I can get by with just cutting the bottom since I am going to use a turbo header..DO I need to remove more to keep it cool?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Horizontal mounting works best from a cooling point of view

jdkxtreme

I just hated to redo the blind nuts...I am a beginer

stallwart

A stack is not necessary, but will reduce the amount of fuel inside the cowl. It won't help or hinder performance based upon my limited experience.

Cooling requires 2 and possibly 3 times exit area compared to intake area. The ticket is how the airflow is directed to cylinder and cylinder head of the engine and around exhaust manifold, and to reduce ambient heat from the pipe and muffler. Usually the muffler is hanging outside the cowl, so is not much of an issue.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Horizontal engines run as good as vertical engines

If you invert the engine, you will need to relocate the tank to be even with the needle valve

I've knocked out a few blind nuts, filled the holes and redrilled before but it is less trouble than cooling problems

jdkxtreme

Crap..lol... I figured That is what I would have to do..It sure does look good inverted though..lol

mike early

The valve cover gaskets for the FG-20 are much better than the rice paper stuff on the 125.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

My Saito 125 valve covers have the Kevlar reinforced gaskets that are at least 1mm thick. I wouldn't exactly call them rice paper.

Now the gasket on the back plate might be getting close to rice paper?

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI125A32

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SAIG2032

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

You won't see it from the ground when the model is flying. To have an absolutely reliable engine (sidemounted) versus something that looks better, but deadsticks rather frequently is a no brainer for me.


Ed Cregger

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

I have to disagree with the "deadsticks rather frequently" statement. I mount the vast majority of my single cyl four strokes inverted and rarely - if ever - deadstick. That has just not been something I've experienced.

Rudolph Hart

Ed you KNOW how good those valva covers and heads lookj facing down through the cowl inlet,don't be a tuning woos(girls bloouse)

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

LOL woos

mike early

The photos are correct. The brown valve cover gaskets on the FA-125 are the same material as the brown back plate gasket material on both my 125s.
The gasket for the FG-20 is at least 5x thicker.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Then you are a better engine tuner and setup man than most, that's all.

I don't run engines inverted as I don't care if the cylinder head sticks out of my engine holder's cowl or not. Seldom do I bother with using a cowl anyway.

Fortunately, for me, I'm not into seeing airplanes as works of art. Having worked in crash/rescue in real life, all of my illusions have been shattered long ago about the aesthetic beauty of airplanes. To me, form follows function. The beauty, to me, is in the function. Not in how a plane looks so much. I know - I know. I'm in the minority. Well, someone has to be, so I guess it might as well be me.


Ed Cregger

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Mikester, I put a set of BOCA Ceramic bearings in my well worn Fox .50, they are very precise. The Fox is converted to Diesel operation. I have inspected the bearings twice since installation and all is well. I have a set of the BOCA ceramics here to install in an Enya .46 MKII. Its a shame you had a ball bust, that would be very disheartening.

RC Specialties

GaGeeBees,

I agree, a Saito will run inverted just as well as upright. I too, mount mostly inverted and I don't have any deadsticks either. Properly tuned, it is not a problem.

Jim

jdkxtreme

My main question about it being inverted is..Do I still need to cut out more of the cowl than just the bottom for cooling?

RC Specialties

jdk,

You need to have an inlet opening of sufficient size to provide good air flow across the cylinder, if possible. Youalso need an exit, usually at the bottom that is large enough for exit air. The rule of thumb is three times the inlet size.

Jim

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

YES