terryscustom

The twitching problem happened at our club field, in my back-yard and last night in the garage......so everywhere I have tried it. I E-mailed Horizon service so I hope they will send me a new ignition to try.

T.

jdkxtreme

I have better luck calling them. Seems to take a few days for a return call. But only a few minutes to answer the phone

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

Hey I am in! I got rid of the wife and now I have a 100 and a 150! Still a saito rookie but what the heck wife has only been gone a week!

Have a great day! I know i'm going too!

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Slats,


Found Hobby's breakin procedure

Coloradobanjo

My Feedback: (3)

I bought a well-worn FA-50 Golden Knight, and it has sort of low compression. Still, it puts out adequate power for my girlfriend's trainer. Trouble is, it won't idle reliably or even run all that slowly without stalling. I love to tinker, but hate waste money. Should I rebuild it? If so, what all should I plan to replace?

blw

My Feedback: (3)

In this case, I would just start it back up and listen closely to how it runs. You probably didn't damage anything, but let us know what you find out.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You could put a new Frank Bowman ring in it

Frank Bowman

1211 N Allen Ave. Farmington, N.M. 87401-3568

505-327-0696 Email: [email protected]

Reproduction Model Engine Rings

Quality at a fair honest price. Making a good ring is a Skill. Making a fine ring is an Art!

Last Revised 1-6-09

I will reproduce nearly any model engine ring. If not available, I’ll need a good piston and cylinder to measure, or send motor. Send return postage, insurance is extra. For orders outside of USA, ask for shipping costs? Priority postage is extra. An order of 10 rings or more, discount of $1.00 off per ring, mixed orders are fine! Ring cost & shipping charges for USA listed below.

Standard ring up to .65 engines: $9.00 ea.(1) shipped $13.00

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

I have been reading through the board and want to break in my engines right (saito 82 & 1.00). It seems that as long as the fuel is a 18-20 percent castor blend it is good, out of the following what would be the best choice.

Omega (pink)
Green death (so they say)
or power master.

Thinking 15% nitro I want to consistently use the same fuel. Thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

forget the green death unless you want to add some castor oil to it.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Of course, the alleged Green Death (also known as Cool Power/Cruel Power) is basically the same fuel as Morgan's Omega but with just a few ounces of castor oil in place of some of the synthetic.

The fuel known as Cool Power worked well in all of my engines that were bushing equipped (upper and lower ends of the connecting rod). A few of my not so well built engines egged out their connecting rods when using Cool Power and Red Max with all synthetic oil. I run my engines hard, so not everyone will experience the same type of accelerated wear as I. I still consider Cool Power to be an excellent fuel and I do not hesitate to use it when circumstances make it the fuel of choice. Just make ding-dang sure that your high speed needle is several hundred rpm on the rich side of peak AT THE END OF THE FLIGHT.


Ed Cregger

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

Hey, wife still gone looking at a saito 82 for a hangar nine sopwith camel they are 60 size, looking to make it fly close to scale but do have to power up for 7500 feet is this the Saito I want? Thanks for any help! Bob

Have a great day! I know i'm going too!

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

If you were at seal level, I would be confident in recommending the .82. They are terrific engines. Since you are at 7.5k feet, and I have no experience flying models at that altitude, were I you, I would be considering a Saito 1.00 or 1.15 (probably the latter). You can always keep the pitch down and increase the diameter of the prop to keep that much power under control, in addition to not using full throttle, of course. Being a biplane, it might very well need the extra weight for balancing the model anyway. If you get a chance to watch some old film stock of just how powered up some of those WWI biplanes were, keep an eye open on the History Channel. They showed film stock of a French biplane fighter that rolled all of 100' or less at took off at an astounding angle from the Earth. My point being that scale power for these models appears to be oriented toward something similar to today's 3D models. At least during the takeoff phase.

I'm not familiar with your model, but it sounds to be a lot like some of the older VK models and other manufacturers' kits. Please be sure to tell us what you decided to do and how it worked out with ongoing reports.


Ed Cregger

RC-Bearings

My Feedback: (1)

Does the system have a resistor plug or resistor spark lead? It should have one or the other. Also, is the spark lead shielded? If not, get some of the woven metal shielding for the lead and ground it at one end only. Make sure it covers the whole length of the lead. What you are getting is AM spike interference. It doesn't matter what kind of receiver you are using as any will be susceptible to this kind of interference.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Up, have the piston at tdc, the timing dot on the cam straight down

VeeAte

Here is another site which may help
http://www.hobbyparts.com.au/store/c.../engine+parts/

Huge listing of bearings etc.

chashint

People have used a wide range of engines on this plane.
I have seen all up weight posted between 8.2 lbs and 9.6 lbs.
The 82 should fly it fine.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47...2Ccamel/tm.htm

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=810

Text added here .........
Initially I thought the 82 was on the low end of the power range and then I reviewed the build thread and the review and changed my mind .......... after reading Ed's post referring to your altitude I am back to thinking the 82 may struggle.
To me an underpowered airplane is no fun at all.
There is the "flys it scale" arguument, but that is not how I want to fly model airplanes.
If I want to slow down I pull the left stick back.
The 100 and the 115 is quite a bit stronger than the 82 and at your altitude would probably be better.

Coloradobanjo

My Feedback: (3)

An update on the old Saito 50 rebuild question. I have moved this thread to its own area:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8716939/tm.htm

Thanks to all.

Chris
Coloradobanjo

RC-Bearings

My Feedback: (1)

I have most of the popular Saitos listed as well as very reasonable shipping to Oz.

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you! I will be looking into a 100 or 115 saito! this is my first bi-plane so was not sure how to power it, I know up here any 40 sized plane has to have a 46 or even better 55 to get the power that you down in lower get out of a 40. But the Saito and bi-plane are new so I am learning and do thank you all for the help! Bob

Have a great day! I know i'm going too!

Thunderchild

Very many thanks to all. I have added these bookmarks to my "suppliers" list (and already placed an order). As my Saito stable ages, I shall be in touch. [8D]

tailspin temple

My Feedback: (28)

HI Bill Two questions How can i stop the flex pipe from braaking off right at the head and why o.s.not have a pressure tap? Thanks BOB

AircamperAce

My Feedback: (11)

Anyone have an old FA-65 or parts layin around? I need a muffler and/or muffler manifold.

Thanks,

Ryan

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Ryan, I think I do, it may not be very pretty but won't be bent up or damaged in any way. Or, check out the above mentioned TurboHeader. It will give you a couple hundred extra rpm.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Are you running a soft engine mount? If so, change that out to a solid engine mount.


Ed Cregger

dirtrod

Hey guys,

I just wanted to tell every one that i put a picture of the E-flite cub with the saito .30 GK on it in the
photo gallery. Im not sure how to put it in the forum. The little cub flys just as good as it looks. The cub
is also float ready.

Happy flying to everyone,
Ty[8D]