Welcome to Club SAITO !
06-01-2009, 11:21 AM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I had the joint soldered and the heat shrink tubing I used was a little soft. It broke right at the edge of the solder joint. I'll try your suggestion of just crimping it, and use a harder tubing.
06-01-2009, 03:02 PM
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Abingdon,
VA
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I used the braid on my 180 kinda looks like a little ground strap like used on autos . Mounted it on the rear bolt and it would still come loose every so often .
06-03-2009, 04:39 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Palestine,
TX
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
solid copper wire 22 ga. to 18 ga.
crimped soldered and heat shrinked
under a rear mounting bolt with a nylon insert locking nut on the bottom.
no problems in two years
crimped soldered and heat shrinked
under a rear mounting bolt with a nylon insert locking nut on the bottom.
no problems in two years
06-03-2009, 05:32 AM
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: w8ye
I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.
I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.
The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.
Ed Cregger
Spelling correction
06-03-2009, 06:27 AM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: AJ4PJ
The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.
Ed Cregger
Spelling correction
ORIGINAL: w8ye
I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.
I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.
The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.
Ed Cregger
Spelling correction
What oil?
06-03-2009, 07:49 AM
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Castle Rock,
CO
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: rajul
Hi once again folks! Anyone knows what type of cable works best forgroundingan engine (for a glow plug connector). The cable I'm using seems to break by fatigue after 25-30 flights. Anyone tried copper braid? Thanks
Hi once again folks! Anyone knows what type of cable works best forgroundingan engine (for a glow plug connector). The cable I'm using seems to break by fatigue after 25-30 flights. Anyone tried copper braid? Thanks
06-03-2009, 08:35 AM
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: w8ye
Oil?
What oil?
ORIGINAL: AJ4PJ
The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.
Ed Cregger
Spelling correction
ORIGINAL: w8ye
I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.
I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.
The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.
Ed Cregger
Spelling correction
What oil?
The oil that you should have added to the rocker assembly area instead of the grease. We agree that these parts need lubrication. I'm just saying that grease isn't the answer and that oil is the answer. Ever see folks grease their auto's door hinges in an effort to quiet down the racket? Doesn't work. There's no way for the grease to get inside of the parts that are rubbing each other while dry. A shot of oil fixes things right up. Same thing.
Ed Cregger
06-03-2009, 09:59 AM
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Castle Rock,
CO
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: AJ4PJ
The oil that you should have added to the rocker assembly area instead of the grease. We agree that these parts need lubrication. I'm just saying that grease isn't the answer and that oil is the answer. Ever see folks grease their auto's door hinges in an effort to quiet down the racket? Doesn't work. There's no way for the grease to get inside of the parts that are rubbing each other while dry. A shot of oil fixes things right up. Same thing.
Ed Cregger
ORIGINAL: w8ye
Oil?
What oil?
ORIGINAL: AJ4PJ
The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.
Ed Cregger
Spelling correction
ORIGINAL: w8ye
I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.
I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.
The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.
Ed Cregger
Spelling correction
What oil?
The oil that you should have added to the rocker assembly area instead of the grease. We agree that these parts need lubrication. I'm just saying that grease isn't the answer and that oil is the answer. Ever see folks grease their auto's door hinges in an effort to quiet down the racket? Doesn't work. There's no way for the grease to get inside of the parts that are rubbing each other while dry. A shot of oil fixes things right up. Same thing.
Ed Cregger
That said, it is entirely OK to use a high quality oil designed for use in model engines in place of the grease. Notice I said oil designed for model engine use. Using just any oil can be detrimental if it is broken down by the fuel and oil mixtures. I usually have a small bottle of Sig castor handy for assembly. I also use Amsoil synthetic grease on the cams of my YS and OS four strokes.
06-03-2009, 03:01 PM
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: RC-Bearings
Ed, when assembling motorcycle and auto engines, it is necessary to use special assembly greases in critical wear areas such as cams and rockers. This prevents excess wear and heat until proper lubrication can get in there. Redline makes a great one for that. It will be washed out when the oil is present.
That said, it is entirely OK to use a high quality oil designed for use in model engines in place of the grease. Notice I said oil designed for model engine use. Using just any oil can be detrimental if it is broken down by the fuel and oil mixtures. I usually have a small bottle of Sig castor handy for assembly. I also use Amsoil synthetic grease on the cams of my YS and OS four strokes.
ORIGINAL: AJ4PJ
The oil that you should have added to the rocker assembly area instead of the grease. We agree that these parts need lubrication. I'm just saying that grease isn't the answer and that oil is the answer. Ever see folks grease their auto's door hinges in an effort to quiet down the racket? Doesn't work. There's no way for the grease to get inside of the parts that are rubbing each other while dry. A shot of oil fixes things right up. Same thing.
Ed Cregger
ORIGINAL: w8ye
Oil?
What oil?
ORIGINAL: AJ4PJ
The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.
Ed Cregger
Spelling correction
ORIGINAL: w8ye
I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.
I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.
The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.
Ed Cregger
Spelling correction
What oil?
The oil that you should have added to the rocker assembly area instead of the grease. We agree that these parts need lubrication. I'm just saying that grease isn't the answer and that oil is the answer. Ever see folks grease their auto's door hinges in an effort to quiet down the racket? Doesn't work. There's no way for the grease to get inside of the parts that are rubbing each other while dry. A shot of oil fixes things right up. Same thing.
Ed Cregger
That said, it is entirely OK to use a high quality oil designed for use in model engines in place of the grease. Notice I said oil designed for model engine use. Using just any oil can be detrimental if it is broken down by the fuel and oil mixtures. I usually have a small bottle of Sig castor handy for assembly. I also use Amsoil synthetic grease on the cams of my YS and OS four strokes.
Well, I know that Jim knows better than to put two parts together dry and then load them up with grease on the non bearing surface area available. I should have explained that to begin with. And yes, I know that assembly greases are available for the job at hand (assembling an engine). I meant to say one thing and said something else, which made Jim look bad. My apologies to friend Jim. I know that he knows his stuff. I just don't want the folks that are new to all of this to think that you can put a lump of grease beside a contact point and that it will miraculously find its way to where it is needed - that's all.
Nice hearing from you, old friend.
Ed Cregger
06-03-2009, 04:28 PM
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Castle Rock,
CO
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Dang, Ed! I was in Greenville, SC last summer for a couple of weeks on training. If I know I was that close to you I would have come by!
06-03-2009, 09:25 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Bethpage,
TN
Posts: 573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Two questions for the experts ...
1st Good prop for a saito 80gk in a .40 size cub? I have a mas 14x6 k series
2nd The motor is inverted so the opening of the carb is up. It is about 1" from the cowl. Do I have to cut a whole in the pretty cowl or will I be ok?
1st Good prop for a saito 80gk in a .40 size cub? I have a mas 14x6 k series
2nd The motor is inverted so the opening of the carb is up. It is about 1" from the cowl. Do I have to cut a whole in the pretty cowl or will I be ok?
06-03-2009, 11:01 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Mayaguez, PUERTO RICO (USA)
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hey guys
I got a tach and cheked my saito 100
running CY30%/23%oil
APC 15x4W- 10,230- peak
Zinger Pro 15x6 9,000-peak
I think these RPM's are kinda low for the saito 100, specially when using the Zinger pro. My brother is getting 10,700 peak from his 91 with a 14x4W running on 15% fuel...
My valves are adjsted and have tuned my needles to the best point.. are these RPM's on a normal range.. or are they low?
I've heard from people gettin 9,800 out of there APC's 15x6. Could the prop being Zinger bring my RPM's down by 800? I really think these RPM's are very low specially when am running in 30% heli fuel! Any advice would be very welcome
William
I got a tach and cheked my saito 100
running CY30%/23%oil
APC 15x4W- 10,230- peak
Zinger Pro 15x6 9,000-peak
I think these RPM's are kinda low for the saito 100, specially when using the Zinger pro. My brother is getting 10,700 peak from his 91 with a 14x4W running on 15% fuel...
My valves are adjsted and have tuned my needles to the best point.. are these RPM's on a normal range.. or are they low?
I've heard from people gettin 9,800 out of there APC's 15x6. Could the prop being Zinger bring my RPM's down by 800? I really think these RPM's are very low specially when am running in 30% heli fuel! Any advice would be very welcome
William
06-03-2009, 11:26 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sherwood,
AR
Posts: 549
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: jdkxtreme
Two questions for the experts ...
1st Good prop for a saito 80gk in a .40 size cub? I have a mas 14x6 k series
2nd The motor is inverted so the opening of the carb is up. It is about 1" from the cowl. Do I have to cut a whole in the pretty cowl or will I be ok?
Two questions for the experts ...
1st Good prop for a saito 80gk in a .40 size cub? I have a mas 14x6 k series
2nd The motor is inverted so the opening of the carb is up. It is about 1" from the cowl. Do I have to cut a whole in the pretty cowl or will I be ok?
Don't bother cutting holes in the cowl for the carb. If you have intake for cooling, the engine should breathe.
06-04-2009, 03:07 PM
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Abingdon,
VA
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: WiLL-3D
Hey guys
I got a tach and cheked my saito 100
running CY30%/23%oil
APC 15x4W- 10,230- peak
Zinger Pro 15x6 9,000-peak
I think these RPM's are kinda low for the saito 100, specially when using the Zinger pro. My brother is getting 10,700 peak from his 91 with a 14x4W running on 15% fuel...
My valves are adjsted and have tuned my needles to the best point.. are these RPM's on a normal range.. or are they low?
I've heard from people gettin 9,800 out of there APC's 15x6. Could the prop being Zinger bring my RPM's down by 800? I really think these RPM's are very low specially when am running in 30% heli fuel! Any advice would be very welcome
William
Hey guys
I got a tach and cheked my saito 100
running CY30%/23%oil
APC 15x4W- 10,230- peak
Zinger Pro 15x6 9,000-peak
I think these RPM's are kinda low for the saito 100, specially when using the Zinger pro. My brother is getting 10,700 peak from his 91 with a 14x4W running on 15% fuel...
My valves are adjsted and have tuned my needles to the best point.. are these RPM's on a normal range.. or are they low?
I've heard from people gettin 9,800 out of there APC's 15x6. Could the prop being Zinger bring my RPM's down by 800? I really think these RPM's are very low specially when am running in 30% heli fuel! Any advice would be very welcome
William
The numbers do seem a tad low . But how much time do you have on your engine? It will take a couple gallons before you see the true potential .
BTW I get 10600 rpm off my .82a with a 14x4w on 15% measured with a Fromeco tach . Sounds like your not hitting the peak when tuning maybe ? I also run a 15x4 W at 9600 rpm on the same setup.
06-04-2009, 11:08 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sherwood,
AR
Posts: 549
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: jdkxtreme
There are no cooling holes as of yet. Will a 1" square under the prop work? The bottom of the cowl is pretty open..
There are no cooling holes as of yet. Will a 1" square under the prop work? The bottom of the cowl is pretty open..
According to experts, at least a 1 to 3 ratio of inflow to outflow for cooling is best. The most important is amount of open area for outflow unless a means of ducting or routing of airflow is built in. I any case, carb probably won't know the difference.
06-05-2009, 09:43 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Mayaguez, PUERTO RICO (USA)
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: Michaelh
The Zingers are a power hog . You should fly it before you make a decision on whether to keep it or not though. Static RPM's are not everything and things change in the air .Also props are a personel preference to ones style and skill set .
The numbers do seem a tad low . But how much time do you have on your engine? It will take a couple gallons before you see the true potential .
BTW I get 10600 rpm off my .82a with a 14x4w on 15% measured with a Fromeco tach . Sounds like your not hitting the peak when tuning maybe ? I also run a 15x4 W at 9600 rpm on the same setup.
ORIGINAL: WiLL-3D
Hey guys
I got a tach and cheked my saito 100
running CY30%/23%oil
APC 15x4W- 10,230- peak
Zinger Pro 15x6 9,000-peak
I think these RPM's are kinda low for the saito 100, specially when using the Zinger pro. My brother is getting 10,700 peak from his 91 with a 14x4W running on 15% fuel...
My valves are adjsted and have tuned my needles to the best point.. are these RPM's on a normal range.. or are they low?
I've heard from people gettin 9,800 out of there APC's 15x6. Could the prop being Zinger bring my RPM's down by 800? I really think these RPM's are very low specially when am running in 30% heli fuel! Any advice would be very welcome
William
Hey guys
I got a tach and cheked my saito 100
running CY30%/23%oil
APC 15x4W- 10,230- peak
Zinger Pro 15x6 9,000-peak
I think these RPM's are kinda low for the saito 100, specially when using the Zinger pro. My brother is getting 10,700 peak from his 91 with a 14x4W running on 15% fuel...
My valves are adjsted and have tuned my needles to the best point.. are these RPM's on a normal range.. or are they low?
I've heard from people gettin 9,800 out of there APC's 15x6. Could the prop being Zinger bring my RPM's down by 800? I really think these RPM's are very low specially when am running in 30% heli fuel! Any advice would be very welcome
William
The numbers do seem a tad low . But how much time do you have on your engine? It will take a couple gallons before you see the true potential .
BTW I get 10600 rpm off my .82a with a 14x4w on 15% measured with a Fromeco tach . Sounds like your not hitting the peak when tuning maybe ? I also run a 15x4 W at 9600 rpm on the same setup.
Yes those are my peak's.I bought the engine used along with my harrier 90, the guy told me the engine had already broke in, although it did seem like new. The engine had no marks, no oil stains on it or anything. After I bought i Ihave ran about one more gallon through it, and this is all Iget... hopefully it get's better in some time! Could there be anything affecting the performance? The plug is a almost new OS F btw.
Thanks
William
06-06-2009, 08:24 PM
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Abingdon,
VA
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Will , all we could do is speculate . Just sounds to me like it has not fully broken in yet . 45minutes and a gallon is not near fully broke in ;D That plane could use a 1.15 though .
Try a 16x4W to get your rpms in the 9's also .
Try a 16x4W to get your rpms in the 9's also .
06-07-2009, 05:48 AM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hi all,does anybody have a prop recomendation for a 115 in a small midget mustang(1400mm wingspan).We have a short field and i like to fly it scale.Image to follow.
06-08-2009, 06:40 AM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Thanks for the advice.No way i'm running my 115 anywhere near that and will try a few different props static and try to work it out from there,there must be a scale of load for props coarse to fine when they are flying.
06-08-2009, 08:29 AM
My Feedback: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Scottsdale IL
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have a Saito150 inverted in my Mustang. The fuel tank is well above the carb and is set back about 7" from the engine.
Can someone advise the best pump or regulator so the engine wont flood when the tank is filled.
Thanks, RON
Can someone advise the best pump or regulator so the engine wont flood when the tank is filled.
Thanks, RON