Ken6PPC

I agree with w8ye. It would be best to wait until you have this engine in hand, so you can see what has been damaged.

I did a search, and I believe it was this auction that you won: http://tinyurl.com/mjaqav

If that is the engine you purchased, you will definately need a new intake manifold and a spraybar. It looks like those were damaged in a crash. The high speed needle valve may or may not be bent.

Perhaps you will be lucky, and that is all that is damaged. However, if it was run for any length of time with that cracked intake manifold, it might have ran so lean as to damage some other internal parts. If the engine siezed, you may need a piston, a piston ring, and cylinder. If the crankshaft was bent in the crash, that will need to be straightened, or possibly replaced. If it has rusted up by setting for a while with moisture in the crankshaft, it will need bearings.

In short, I wouldn't put another penny in this engine, until I could inspect it to see how much damage it has! So, wait until you have a chance to examine it before you order parts.

kevinkenny

Thats the one Ken. I will order the manifold and the Carburetor kit which includes a new spray bar and do as you say, take it apart when I get it and see how good or bad it is.

Kevin

elvir

i got a chanse to fly yesturday and it was good it was my third flight i am still learning about the saito 125 , it is strange to me over the 2 stroke.it seem to me that my low needle is still a bit rich , when i came for a landing and prop hit the ground with no problems or damage the engin just shut down, but when i went to restart it it would not fire up. dose any one have any ideas or commet befor i take it apart , glow plug is good.

kevinkenny

The problem that Elvir reports haas also happened to me. I have a new OS90 that I bought on E Bay that I have run just less than 1 gallon through to break it in ( 40 minutes on a bench) . At idle it is very rich and will stop if I remove the glow until it heats up, then it will keep running. The ground is covered in oil indicating how rich the idle setting is. Every time this topic comes up we hear that the low speed idle is factory set and we should leave it alone. MY feeling is with this engine anyway is that someone interfered with the low speed jet. What is the correct setting? Can this be adjusted? How do you go through resetting the low speed Idle?

Kevin

Ken6PPC

Here are a couple things I know you will need for that 1.80:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SAI18069

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...D=SAI450R3D84A

I hope that is all you will need, but possibly this will be needed as well:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI120S85

If you need bearings, I would order them from RC Bearings:

http://www.rc-bearings.com/catalog/p...roducts_id=749

If you have to pull the cam box (and you will if you need to change the bearings), I'd replace the cam box gasket:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI18032A


However, the point that I was trying to make is that I don't think I would put any more money into this until I found out if it was worth rebuilding it. The crash damage could be so expensive to repair that it isn't worth it to do so.

There are a couple parts shown that don't go with your Saito 1.80. They are the ones just below the carb, and in the bottom left of the attached picture.

smkrcflyer

I'm joining the Saito club. I got two this year an FA-100 and FA-125. The 100 is going into a Top Flite P-51 .60 size and the 125 is going in a Midwest AT-6.

McChiken

Well I got new seals , gaskets , and bearings for a Saito 82 . I was wondering if anyone could tell me any do's and don'ts when tearing into it . Maybe some standards of procedure . I have never replaced bearings before and was also wondering if any special tools are necessary for there removal ?

I Know if I Build It , They Will Come .

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Try reading some posts after these. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_33...tm.htm#8422651
John

spaceworm

How about an AJS 750 single? Rode one of those circa 1960. It lept about 20 feet every time it fired, and scary to kick start. Wish I had it now.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Hey Space, do you fly at WindWalkers, I fly an Alpha 60 with a Saito .80 there most Wednesdays.

spaceworm

Yes, I met you there several weekends ago and then didn't see you for awhile. I hope to be out there on Saturday with Gary Graham. I hope to get out Wednesdays soon also. I also fly an Alpha 60, but with the Evo 61nt. I have ordered the high comp head from the 61nx as the appear to be interchangeable. We will see. I have a Saito 180 that will likely go on a GP Giant Super Chipmunk, or, maybe first an Ace Big Bingo. Look forward to seeing you at the field.

V/r,

Spaceworm/ARCAV8R/Dick Smith

blw

My Feedback: (3)

smkrcflyer-

Good start on the engines. You are member #638

leedees

I have only three Saito Engines so I am clearly not as experienced with these engines as many guys. Anyway, it seems to me with the backfiring, starting backwards, big fat vibration, massive oil output etc when doing a break in by the book, the recommended high speed setting is way too rich.

I am particularly aggravated today because my new .82 just trashed a 15 dollar prop and a 50 dollar Tru Turn spinner when it backfired after having been run for a total of 35 minutes.
I just hope the engine isn't damaged. This happened while moving the throttle from about 25% to 80%.

The whole break-in expense, time and mess is making me re-think whether that great sound is worth it. Of the three engines, my 56 is the only one that hasn't been a pita.

There, that's my gripe for the day. :-) Anybody else think the initial setting is too rich?

McChiken

I got three Saitos and have had good luck with break-ins . In fact its the only time I can easily start a Saito with a chicken stick for some reason . Might be due to the rich setting . Might be due to my nickname . . I don't think I go 5 turns like the book says . I think I usually do like 4 turns . I run 4 tanks through it leaning each one a little more then fly'em easy for another 4 tanks . The first tank I don't go over 4k RPM's like the book says . I use the solid aluminum dubro spinners and an APC prop on break in .


Thanks JNorton for the link . That will help me quite a bit .

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

Yip, way too rich in the idle screw was mine. When I was breaking in my 180 it near guzzled my 24oz tank it about 7minutes! that was until the guys on here ( Hobbsy and w8ye in particular ) put me right.

Go back thru my posts until you get to the first of my Welcome to Club Saito posts, for great info. Since then my 180 is awesome and I haven't touched the screws once... no complaints what-so-ever

CFN, Paul

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

Yo Hobbsy... How'd ya doin?

Hey didn't you do a wee 3 blader test on a 2.20 awhile back? I'm thinking of a 16x8 on my 180.... your thoughts?

Cheers, Paul

kevinkenny

If the low speed jet is not correctly set is there a place you start from. For instance the high speed jet we all start from three full turns and then start closing down until we get the max RPM then open it up a bit to make sure it is not too lean. What is the procedure with how we should approach adjusting the low speed jet.
Kevin

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

I love the new search thread feature. Ken had this to say a while back.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_33...tm.htm#7025053
John

EDIT-> I don't know why but it is one down from Hobbsy post

mike early

I understand there is a new version and an old version of the plastic backplate on the back of the .72.

What were the problems with the old version?

How to determine which version is on my 2nd (at least) hand .72?

Ken6PPC

The first picture is the original backplate, and the second picture shows the improved version. (Pictures borrowed from Bill Robinson a whle back.) Anyway, on the improved version, you will note the little extensions under where the carb bolts on. The original didn't have those extensions, and therefore distorted easier.

charlie1960

yeah i was curious too. my 100 has an aluminum backplate, and my new 82 has a black phenolic plastic back plate......just curious as to "whats the deal"
oh BTW. i took the stictches out. its healing nicely
i now have a new found respect for an 82 with a 14 inch prop

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

I just had an incident where there was a crash and both prop blades were sheared the engine has no visible damage is there anything you guys recommend as a check. I have no idea what to look or feel for when turing it over to see if anything is bent. thxs

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Clean the engine off without getting any dirt inside

Twist crank between fingers and feel for rough bearings and look for a bent crank

Run the engine and see if it run OK.

charlie1960

would just bolt on another prop and turn the engine over by hand and feel it.....
also look for run out on the prop shaft....
doubt you'll have any damage.
ive busted a few props and all was ok.

mike early

Thanks a lot!