w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I use 6-32 on a 56 and no nuts. Just tap the mount

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I would not recommend a plastic or even glass filled mounts. I have found aluminum mounts to be better for for strokes due to the vibration they produce which is hard on exhaust systems on flexible mounts.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Ouch. Hope she is repairable and flies again.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Saito 100s all cowled in with the Turbo Headers installed. They are compact and are nice for these narrow war bird cowls. This is the third change to these cowls and hopefully the last. I had to glass the vents back in this time.

mono wing

the last change is definately the best I love my turbo header the cowles look real good now

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

Hi So I have been using Cool Power 4 stroke 15% nitro, synthetic blend/ bit of castor mix as it really was my best option at the time. I now have the opportunity to purchase some YS 20/20 blend as the LHS is now stocking it. Of course its more $$$ but is it worth it. A couple of things the engines run great now but I have to admit the castor staining is pretty annoying but I would rather have them run well then looks. Would a bump in 5% nitro really be noticeable? Any comments would be appreciated.. Thanks

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

And of course I forgot my main question if I switch from a fuel with castor to non at all is this an issue. Can you switch back and forth like that??

blw

My Feedback: (3)

No problem at all. You can swap back and forth as often as you want.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I've used the 6/32 tapping screws on these mounts on all of my models. I had a model that had a case of chronic elevator flutter, and it went down at something like 80 mph. I was using the GP mount with an Evolution .46NT. It hit pretty much on the side of the spinner on hard ground and destroyed the model. This was almost a straight down attitude. The mount survived intact with a couple of bent 6/32 screws as the only damage. I was impressed by the strength of the mount.

Mounting them as W8YE says is a foolproof method.

Chancho

IMHO - I’ve had excellent results with the composite mounts with my Saitos. I drill, tap and use a lock washer and washer with no Loctite as I understand it may eat at the material. I’m always weight conscientious and of course an aluminum mount will offer a more ridged platform, better piece of mind and higher weight.

tracerbob

Hey guys, just found this thread. I'm rebuilding a Saito 150 some one gave me. So far, just a new carb and bearings and an overall clean up. I've got a question. I want to remove the piston wrist pin but it ain't budging. Are these pressed in or is the thing just need a good soaking in some solvent to loosin it up a bit?

kevinkenny

If you look at the parts list you will see the pin has no threads which would indicate that it is just pushed it. Try to heat the piston and then try knocking it out. I am also over haling a Saito 180 so would be very interested in your experience. I have prepared a Power Point presentation about the job and would be happy to send it to you of you give me your e mail address. Feel free to comment on it. I plan making it available to any one that is interested. I did not take the piston apart so do not have that covered in my presentation. I will be happy to include your experience. It has to be sent in a few parts because I used high qualified photographs.

Kevin

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Chancho,

I don't know about 'eating' the material, but certain adhesives will set up stresses in plastics and should be watched for... I don't know if the Loctite/composite mount combination will cause the plastics to craze, but it could be an issue down the road. If it happens, it will probably happen over a period of time, not immediately.

Just my $.02

Bob

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The black plastic motor mounts like the Great Planes will hold even a sheet metal screw without it backing out. No lock washers or anything.

But a sheet metal screw is too soft for something like a Saito 56

Don't try a sheet metal screw into wood mounts. It will back out faster than you can shut the engine down.

Chancho

I'm with you Bob,

I had to read up what crazed meant, i.e, cracking and your right, it can craze or gum over time, but works. It doesn't matter how many times I mount a motor, it's an art and I think I am getting better everytime. I also believe all the airplane crashing I've done over the years has made me better at it.

Thanks,

Phil

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

No question that most composite mounts are strong. Not the issue IMO. They do, however, flex and bend and metal ones don't. This flexing is enhanced by our 'paint shaker' 4-strokes. Appendages like exhaust systems take a beating. I don't find the extra weight of the mount to be a problem for any but the smallest of airframes. Usually moving a servo back is all that is needed. I like the composite mounts and have used them for many years. I drill and tap them and never have a bolt come loose, but I have far less problems with mufflers coming loose on my 4-strokes with metal mounts.

SU-31 flyer

I got a call from Horzion today on my 270 I sent in That couldn't be repaied. They suggested the evo. 40 for my Stinson. So we made a trade with some extra cash from me. But I was happy to get an engine I can count on.

jmcmike

My Feedback: (45)

Hey guys, im sure this has been covered but im tryirg to find the power diference between the saito 125 and the 115. I have a 115 and love it but not sure if it will power my next project.

thanks....mike

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The main difference between the two engine is the external size.

The 115 has the same mounting footprint as the Saito 65, 80, 91, OS/Magnum 70.

The 125 has the same footprint as the Saito 100, OS/Magnum 91, Y-S 91,110, & 115

There is one prop size difference in power between a 115 and a 125.

The 115 is essentially a Saito 91 with a 125 cylinder on it.

jmcmike

My Feedback: (45)

Thanks W8YE, I forgot about the smaller foot print thing. I think ill go with the 125 based on that alone. The plane was setup for a 100 so i dont want to move the mounts for the 115


thanks again.....mike

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Bummer about the 2.70. They're great engines.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Yes, that is a shame about your 270. Wish you well with your new engine.

Ken Cz

Hi Guys,
I am hoping you can help me again,

My newer Saito 115 was involved in a minor impact and one of the push rod tubes (and the push rod I assume) is bent significantly.

Are they easy to replace? Would rather do it myself instead of sending it in.

Can anyone tell me the procedure and what I need to aware of?

I am thinking I would need to replace the valve cover gaskets and the lower push rod cover plate gasket as well. Correct?

Thanks,
Ken

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

No need to touch the cam housing, put the piston at TDC to relax valve springs, remove rocker cover, remove four bolts that hold the cylinder down. They will be unbelievably tight, pull cylinder upward about .25 inch, do the work and re-assemble. I like to cut an Allen wrench down to remove the cylinder bolts. Again do not remove the cam housing as I did here.

PS, there is no base gasket and not need to replace the rocker cover gaskets.

spaceworm

Unless you ensure that the crank and/or cam gear has not and will not move during the dissembly process, You will need to time the cam gear with the piston at TDC. Someone else can help you there as the procedure varies with the engine size. If you, and you might, need to remove the cam housing, make sure that the gasket is in place between the cam housing and the crankcase, as this sets the clearances between the gears of the crank and the cam. Unless the gasket is damaged there is no need to replace that gasket as it is not under any pressure (since the crankcase is vented). For the 180 I have, it was necessary to grind down the supplied hex wrench to allow it to be fully seated in the cylinder hold down bolts. Otherwise you risk damagiing the internal hex of those bolts.