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Old 09-05-2009, 10:28 AM
  #15826  
blw
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cd_web- you are member #659
Old 09-05-2009, 01:57 PM
  #15827  
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I broke in the Saito 1.00 twin in the last hour, I did my usual 10 minutes at various rpm. During the 5,000 rpm run the engine picked up 450 rpm
10 minutes @=====4,000
10 minutes @=====5,000
10 minutes @=====6,000
9.5 minutes @==== 7,000, 16oz tank went empty, I shut it down rather than let it go lean and quit.
5 more minutes @ 7,500, then set HS needles for 9,450 peak, then set airbleds for sub 2,000 rpm idle.
Fuel===WildCat 15% Premium Extra
Plugs===Pre H9 Super plug
Prop===Bolly 13.5x8, a surprise as I exected 8,200 or 8,300 at most, a pleasant surprise.
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Old 09-05-2009, 02:09 PM
  #15828  
w8ye
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Those are some good figures. That engine would do well on a 60 size stick

How does that compare with your 90TS
Old 09-05-2009, 02:17 PM
  #15829  
Hobbsy
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Jim, if memory serves, the TS 90 turned an APC 14x6 at 9,400, I'll see if I can dig it up before I say it Gospel.

Woops, I found it. Well, so much for the memory.
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Old 09-05-2009, 03:05 PM
  #15830  
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Hobbsy,

Nice engine! Let me know when you need some TurboHeaders for it. By the way, the new model 1.80 TurboHeader is available now.

Jim
Old 09-05-2009, 05:00 PM
  #15831  
Hobbsy
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Thanks Jim, I'll give you a holler, I've never owned a 1.80, I skipped from the 1.50 to a 2.20.
Old 09-05-2009, 06:45 PM
  #15832  
N1EDM
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Hi mbrennan1,

I don't have the size, but I can find you the screws... They're Saito p/n 6514 (Horizon Hobby stock number SAI6514) and are pretty cheap...

Look here for them. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SAI6514

I hope this helps, just my $.02

Bob
Old 09-05-2009, 07:24 PM
  #15833  
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It is 3.5mmx12mm and .6 thread pitch, I got my Screw Chek'r out and chek'd.
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:38 AM
  #15834  
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Hi Jim
Just got the 180 to start using a more powerful starter and wow she sounded beautiful. She wasidlinga bit rough and seemed very rich. I had a hard time getting to the low speed idle jet with the engine running because the it is mounted on the side. After it had run a full tank dry I moved the screw in a half turn.
The guy with the powerful starter had left but I am sure i will get it sorted out. Many thanks for all you help and advice. This forum is invaluable for newbieswho usually learn from the school of hard knocks.
Best regards
Kevin
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:25 AM
  #15835  
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Question for the gurus. I have a Saito 100 that has a 16x8 MAS on it and would like to try a 3 blade prop. Do I go 15x7 or 15x8 or 16x7 ?? Can't remember the rule of thumb for that. Thanks.
Old 09-06-2009, 10:30 AM
  #15836  
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ORIGINAL: 72

Question for the gurus. I have a Saito 100 that has a 16x8 MAS on it and would like to try a 3 blade prop. Do I go 15x7 or 15x8 or 16x7 ?? Can't remember the rule of thumb for that. Thanks.
Definitely not a guru here but I do remember the rule of thumb. Going from two blade to three, you should drop 1" in either diameter or pitch, so 15x8 or 16x7 would conform with that general guideline. However, with that said, 16x8 seems like a lot of prop for a 1.00. My guess is that the 15x7 would be a better match for your engine. A tach will help you sort it out.
Old 09-06-2009, 12:18 PM
  #15837  
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

I broke in the Saito 1.00 twin in the last hour, I did my usual 10 minutes at various rpm. During the 5,000 rpm run the engine picked up 450 rpm
10 minutes @=====4,000
10 minutes @=====5,000
10 minutes @=====6,000
9.5 minutes @==== 7,000, 16oz tank went empty, I shut it down rather than let it go lean and quit.
5 more minutes @ 7,500, then set HS needles for 9,450 peak, then set airbleds for sub 2,000 rpm idle.
Fuel===WildCat 15% Premium Extra
Plugs===Pre H9 Super plug
Prop===Bolly 13.5x8, a surprise as I exected 8,200 or 8,300 at most, a pleasant surprise.
That's one of the most useful things I've read here at Club Saito. I never knew what to do after the first ten minutes at 4000rpm.
Old 09-06-2009, 06:02 PM
  #15838  
PacificNWSkyPilot
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16 X 8 is a Saito 1.50 propeller, not a Saito 1.00

You need to step down to a 14 X 6, a 15 X 6, or a 15 X 8.

Try that before you go to a three-blade. I'll bet that thing is lugging like a bear. No RPMs at all, I'd bet.

Jim
Old 09-06-2009, 06:46 PM
  #15839  
w8ye
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ORIGINAL: kevinkenny

Hi Jim
Just got the 180 to start using a more powerful starter and wow she sounded beautiful. She wasidlinga bit rough and seemed very rich. I had a hard time getting to the low speed idle jet with the engine running because the it is mounted on the side. After it had run a full tank dry I moved the screw in a half turn.
The guy with the powerful starter had left but I am sure i will get it sorted out. Many thanks for all you help and advice. This forum is invaluable for newbieswho usually learn from the school of hard knocks.
Best regards
Kevin
Good news, another success story of satisfaction

Old 09-06-2009, 06:50 PM
  #15840  
w8ye
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ORIGINAL: 72

Question for the gurus. I have a Saito100 that has a 16x8 MAS on it and would like to try a 3 blade prop. DoI go 15x7 or 15x8 or 16x7 ?? Can't remember the rule of thumb for that.Thanks.
As mentioned already, the Saito 100 normally uses two blade props in the 14 X 6, 14 X 8, and 15 X 6 range. For aThree blade prop, drop an inch in diameter. You would probably like a13 X 8 three blade best.
Old 09-06-2009, 07:35 PM
  #15841  
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Hi,
I burned out the printed wiring on my power panel stalling my starter trying to start an engine, but direct wiring to the 12 volt battery turned the engine over to start with a little initial assist from a hand flip with the starter engaged. I think I need to upgrade my starter system for more torque.

Was this more powerful starter you used for the 180 a 12 volt starter running on 18 or 24 volts, an 18 or 24 volt starter designed for 18 or 24 volts, or a reduction drive starter? Can a 12 volt Sullivan starter be operated on 18 or 24 volts without burning out, or is it better to wire two 12 volt, 9 or 10 ampere hour batteries in parallel to provide more available currrent at the 12 volts?

Thanks for any inputs.
Old 09-06-2009, 07:43 PM
  #15842  
w8ye
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ORIGINAL: spaceworm

Hi,
I burned out the printed wiring on my power panel stalling my starter trying to start an engine, but direct wiring to the 12 volt battery turned the engine over to start with a little initial assist from a hand flip with the starter engaged. I think I need to upgrade my starter system for more torque.

Was this more powerful starter you used for the 180 a 12 volt starter running on 18 or 24 volts, an 18 or 24 volt starter designed for 18 or 24 volts, or a reduction drive starter? Can a 12 volt Sullivan starter be operated on 18 or 24 volts without burning out, or is it better to wire two 12 volt, 9 or 10 ampere hour batteries in parallel to provide more available currrent at the 12 volts?

Thanks for any inputs.
You can do it either way. The series connection resulting in more voltage gives you more speed

If you stall your starter you stand to weld the switch contacts together or possibly damage the armature

Most of our model starters can be used with up to 24 volts

Old 09-06-2009, 09:09 PM
  #15843  
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Leed, that's the reason I came up with the this procedure, the Saito manual was so vague as to be useless. I came up with this so I'd have something I could easily keep rack of and it would be repeatable. After some 22 engines both mine and others it has worked every time. The manual says that a Saito is flyable after 40 minutes so I came as close to that as I could.
Old 09-07-2009, 12:24 AM
  #15844  
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ORIGINAL: spaceworm

Hi,
I burned out the printed wiring on my power panel stalling my starter trying to start an engine, but direct wiring to the 12 volt battery turned the engine over to start with a little initial assist from a hand flip with the starter engaged. I think I need to upgrade my starter system for more torque.

Was this more powerful starter you used for the 180 a 12 volt starter running on 18 or 24 volts, an 18 or 24 volt starter designed for 18 or 24 volts, or a reduction drive starter? Can a 12 volt Sullivan starter be operated on 18 or 24 volts without burning out, or is it better to wire two 12 volt, 9 or 10 ampere hour batteries in parallel to provide more available currrent at the 12 volts?

Thanks for any inputs.

Hi! For my Saito 180 and FG-36 I'm using this starter with a small mods. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFT88 I will place the pics tomorrow.
Old 09-07-2009, 05:15 AM
  #15845  
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I actually have one of these on order which will arrive some this week. It is also the one I used yesterday and it worked perfectly. Does your 180 idle very smoothly or is it rough?
Kevin
Old 09-07-2009, 06:22 AM
  #15846  
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[&o]It is not a smooth but not rough.If you are talking about vibration on idle - yes i do have it.
Old 09-07-2009, 07:19 AM
  #15847  
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That things going to be a rocket kenny
Old 09-07-2009, 01:04 PM
  #15848  
Michaelh
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I use cheap tower hobbies starter for my 180 . Even with the porta pack its no problem.
Old 09-07-2009, 07:04 PM
  #15849  
kevinkenny
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If you mean the size of the plane re the size of the engine you are right. Its a 70 inch wing span but I do not have to fly it at full throttle.
Kevin
Old 09-07-2009, 08:35 PM
  #15850  
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I'm trying to find a Prop Nut setup that locks on a Saito 150. My problem is that I have to try and make it work on a Waco, and the propeller takes up most of the shaft. Thinking of a Higley with a Higley Locker nut behind it. Also thought about using a Tru-Turn Part # TTN-0750-A-825 3/4" X 8 X 1.25

Here's a link to that one. Thought about using a Higley Locker Nut behind that maybe (?).

http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store...exact_match=on

Any better setups around?

Jim


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