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Old 11-01-2009, 09:26 PM
  #16351  
wl7cpa
 
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Thanks guys. That helps a lot.
Old 11-02-2009, 07:05 PM
  #16352  
charlie1960
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Whats the difference between the old FA80 and the newer FA82?
The 80 seems to have more low end torque, and after its ran a bit..a lot more compression. I notice when its cold, its not real hard to turn over. But after its ran, you can turn the prop and almost turn the plane over on compression.
Old 11-02-2009, 07:32 PM
  #16353  
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Hi What is the best way to clean a saito muffler that has gone brown. Thanks
Old 11-02-2009, 07:37 PM
  #16354  
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The .82 will turn an APC 14x6 nearly as fast as a .91. I have both but don not have a side by side picture.
Old 11-02-2009, 09:09 PM
  #16355  
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ORIGINAL: charlie1960

Whats the difference between the old FA80 and the newer FA82?
The 80 seems to have more low end torque, and after its ran a bit..a lot more compression. I notice when its cold, its not real hard to turn over. But after its ran, you can turn the prop and almost turn the plane over on compression.
The 82 has a bigger bore and a shorter stroke

The valves breath better
Old 11-02-2009, 09:11 PM
  #16356  
w8ye
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ORIGINAL: Slats!

Hi What is the best way to clean a saito muffler that has gone brown. Thanks
I have soaked them in hot antifreeze

I have also polished them with red rubbing compound

Old 11-02-2009, 11:14 PM
  #16357  
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Hi there. Do you mean boiling antifreeze, the wife would love that hahaha. does this wreck anything. Out of curiosity is the muffler the same on the 100 as the 82?? Thanks
Old 11-03-2009, 12:08 AM
  #16358  
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NO! Do not boil the antifreeze. That will discolor the aluminum.

You need to just keep it hot like 150F to 170 F

Use a potpourri pot

http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/192-5261207-2140339?ASIN=B0002ONJ1G&AFID=Froogle&LNM=B0002ONJ1 G|Aroma_Electric_Ivy_Potpourri_Pot&ci_src=14110944 &ci_sku=B0002ONJ1G&ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001

$9.99
Old 11-03-2009, 05:21 AM
  #16359  
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I have a Saito 180 on an ESM Beaver. Any recomendations for best prop? It's not aerobatic, just heavy due to the weight I had to add for balance. I have a 16 X 8 APC right now and was able to get 9200 RPM out of that. Another question, is anyone using the M/V 15% Cool Power fuel? I am not sure about this stuff. The M/V stands for Multi-vescosity. I am beginning to not like it for my four strokes.
Old 11-03-2009, 05:44 AM
  #16360  
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so the 80 is a longer stroke...longer rod.
that explains the torque.
Old 11-03-2009, 05:49 AM
  #16361  
charlie1960
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I use it. no problems.
Cool Power MV 15%
Some may not like it for 4st, but ive had no issues at all.
My 100 and 82 started life NOB on the stuff.
Old 11-03-2009, 11:32 AM
  #16362  
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Thanks, I am liking it but my 180 doesn't. So I have to dig a a little deeper to figue out the issue. I'll try 30% and see if I can blow it up. Later and tnx....
Old 11-03-2009, 11:59 AM
  #16363  
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Use Cool Power 4 stroke fuel or Omega

Don't use the MV
Old 11-03-2009, 04:05 PM
  #16364  
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Jim, I just did a little quicky comparo between the Saito .80 and the .82.

Fuel====WildCat 15% 2/4 all synthetic.
Prop====Bolly 13.5x6
Saito .80 rpm==10,050. equipped with Fox Miracle plug
Saito .82 rpm==10.350, equipped with Saito SS plug
Saito .82 with TurboHeader 10,585
Old 11-03-2009, 04:27 PM
  #16365  
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Your 80 is a high compression one

my 80 is a newer lower compression model than yours

But my 82 does seem to pull much stronger on a APC 14 X 6 than my 80
Old 11-03-2009, 04:58 PM
  #16366  
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I have an APC 14x6 but could not find the bushing for it. I didn't have much time so the Bolly had to do.
Old 11-03-2009, 05:22 PM
  #16367  
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I tend to have mostly APC props with a few MAS.

No Bolly's or Graupners
Old 11-03-2009, 05:58 PM
  #16368  
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The hot anti-freeze will make ANY pot that you use un-safe for anything ever again. (except hot anti-freeze). You can not boil it out, scrub it out, soak it out.....nothing will make it safe again. Get a used crock pot at a yard sale for a buck or two. mark it with skulls or some such thing and clean your motors. It works very well.
Old 11-03-2009, 06:09 PM
  #16369  
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I found my problem, not the MV fuel, it was the cheap chinese quality hose in the tank. It desinigrated in one week. That is an ESM Beaver from Troy Built Models. Lots of issues, I hope now it will fly after rebuilding plane.
Old 11-03-2009, 09:47 PM
  #16370  
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Had an eye opening experience today, and nearly got my fingers busted up. In preparation for a remount in "snoopy", I was tinkering with the old 90 twin on the "test post" and had just shut it down to change props. After changing the prop I gave the thing a flick and it sounded like it 'popped'. I looked to see that the batteries to the glow plugs were indeed disconnected (they were) and gave it another swing...low and behold the crazy thing started!
Has anyone ever seen this before. I didn't waste any time in the prop change but it was still at least a minute or more cooling time between shutdown and flicking the new prop. the engine was mounted sideways for exhaust clearance reasons so I might accept that the top jug was still really hot and the fuel had vaporized and was really volatile, then compression put it "over the top'' for ignition-but this was both cyl's lit up. I will definitly never have a casual attitude towards fingering the exhuast and flipping the prop to prime a hot engine again. I've always been careful to check that the plugs were de-energized so this was quite a surprise.
This engine is @ 10 or so years old on the original rings, newer bearings (2-3 yrs old), and at least 7-10 gallons through it-compression is really good.

I knew Saitos are great motors but that beats all. Sure helps to keep me a believer in the quality of Saito's design and manufacture...I don't think you'd have that sort of thing happen on a poorly built motor.
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:52 PM
  #16371  
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Every couple years some one brings up that this happened to them
Old 11-03-2009, 10:40 PM
  #16372  
rcdude7
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Yes it is no suprise that a hot engine will start without the glow plugs being lit by battery power. These engines are not toys, they deserve respect for the injuries they can inflict to the careless. I have seen fellow pilots get carted off to the emergency room to stitch up severe cuts. I wear a leather welding glove when I hand prop my big tigres. I had a S-3000 smack the hell out of my hand, and even with my welding glove on I was running around my backyard crying like a madman in pain. I escaped injury, but man that hurt like %*$#@(*.
Old 11-03-2009, 11:15 PM
  #16373  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

I would never have imagined it. There are countless times when I've stalled a motor just as I was getting ready to taxi or fly and just on a hope and prayer filpped the prop a few times to see if it might start on residual heat since it was just 4-5 seconds since it quit...never had any luck with it, Always had to carry it back to the table or bring a glow driver to it. So this was certainly a great surprise being that it had cooled for the time it would take for a quick, but not hurried prop change. At least a minute if not two. Wow. I was lucky this time, but I'll never be so cavalier about a hot motor again, so there won't be a nasty surprise in the future.
Old 11-03-2009, 11:28 PM
  #16374  
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I've been running model engines since the early 50's and I never had one restart on its own.

There's always the first time?
Old 11-04-2009, 04:02 AM
  #16375  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

I've read at least one monthly columnist has claimed that this has happened to him. If it's warm enough and the compression is right, the platinum in the glow plug will catalize the nitro and off she goes. It's not a common occurrence.

As others have said, it's a rare occurrence but it can happen.

Bob


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