Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, since we talked on the phone this AM I pulled the cylinder from my old Saito .80 and repainted it and touched up the crankcase. It looks mighty good now. It's old enough to have a bushed rod, the bearings are still perfectly smooth, the cylinder has no wear marks in it, the thrust side of the piston has lines on it but you cannot feel them.
I'm going to put it on my Alpha 60 and use an early black TurboHeader, just coz its a black engine.
I used 1200 degree paint I got at NAPA. I ran it at about 1/2 throttle for 40 minutes to condition the paint.[8D]

Agador Sparticus

Hey Guys,
For my first 4-stroke, I am wanting to get a saito 82. I am planning on dropping it in my GP Escapade. Do you think this will be too much motor for this plane or will it be ok if I take it easy. I plan on getting a H9 Sundowner next to put the .82 in. Thanks For Your Advice,
Kevin

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It will be just right

tes21966

Hello Club SAITO.

I need some advise. I have a GP 70" Revolver and I want to use a Four Stroke. GP says a 91 FS is the high side for engines for this plane and what reading I have done on these forums, confirms what I was thinking. This ain't enough engine. I was leaning towards a 115-125 Saito of course and had pretty much decided on the 115. This is where my concern lies. When I called my LHS pointed out there was only 1.2 ozs difference in weight between the two engines and only $15-$20 difference in price. Not being able to compare the engines side by side just looking at the Saito Specs there is only a few mms difference in the two engines. My question is this: For those who have seen and used the engines side by side which engine would you opt for based on my application? If I may be so bold, include your reason why.

Thanks,
Tommy

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I have five of the Saito 125 engines and I think they are great. I use them in 60 size planes for as you say, they are only slightly larger than a 91. In fact, the mounting bolt pattern is the same as a OS 91.

bucho

My Feedback: (6)

I JUST GOT A saito 170 3 cyl, for my gp stearman pt 17, any advice ? for the first thanks of run ? I`m a saito frecuent user, but this is my first radial multi cyl..

thanks,,

saito make great engines, great toys, great julery engine.

wich is the best prop ?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Have all three plugs lit from the beginnng. It is hard to relight one when they go out.

It will stablize as you get a little time on it

mk1spitfire

My saito 82 may need new bearings. Its does feel graunchy, turning prop by hand.
I have power loss.
Good rich setting,
even leaning makes no power increase.
Good cooling to.

So, hows it done, easy to do self or send off to specialist?
Any links would help?
Take it, you got to strip away all the plastic, orings to heat crankcase.

Cheers

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Here are some video's explaining the process

http://www.youtube.com/user/rcdieselrc

mk1spitfire

Thanks, just quickly looked and thats an OS,not saito?
I assume its the same principle or wrong link w8ye?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Most things are the same

The differences

The Drive hub on the Saito must be removed with a gear puller

The cam on the Saito has a reference dot that must be aimed straight down at the crankshaft with the crank pin at top dead center

This video on the OS is done by a very respected person who posts on RCU engines often.

mk1spitfire

Yer just watched all, quality vids.

Whats that second picture? A different version of the first??

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Some gear pullers have trouble grasping the Saito hub.

The second picture is called a Bearing Separator and serves to grip the groove in the Saito drive hub so you can grip it with the gear puller

These parts have been available from harbor Freight in the past at reasonable prices

mk1spitfire

Ok, cheers, looks like a relative straight foward job to do, and a better job if there are no parts left over during reasembly!!

So the obsticles are these tools, cam reference and torqueing the bolts.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Sorry but I forgot you are not in the USA. Your sources for the tools will be different

swixtt

Just doing a Saito 100. i ended up using a large vice and heated it to get it to 'pop'. i am cleaning things now and will reassemble today i hope.
my puller wasn't deep enough to grab the hub... but used it later after i got it somewhat unseated and less of the crank showing.

mk1spitfire

yer, no worries,
Do you have to use the tool to get this front bit off?
I mean, can you wedge a couple of flat headed screw drivers in and prize it off or is that a waste of time and a bit rough?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I guess you could but it will mark everything up and make a mess of things

The Raven

From personal experience, I'd strongly recommend you buy a bearing separator. I spent a whole week trying to get the drive hubs off two Saitos I was rebuilding and after spending $20 on the separator had it done within 30seconds.

Do not use screwdrivers! One of the engines I was rebuilding had obviously had this done previously and the hub was warped and mangled. The edge of the hub (on the 45s) had a small lip that was easily damaged AND then it would hit the crankcase snout itself.

As tempting as it is to try it without the right tool, you'll never regret buying the separator. The best part is that it'll suit just about every other engine you pull apart.....thus making it a very cheap and wise investment.

mk1spitfire

Whats a typical usa horizon cost for bearing replacement compared to buying removal tool and doing yourself plus bearing?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Try someone like Just Engines in your country

http://www.justengines.unseen.org/


http://www.macgregor.co.uk/saito.htm

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

There's a tool for every job. Screwdrivers are for screws.

Bob

FNQFLYER

Ok, I give up to many posts, I have 1x30, 1x50 (should be 2 but one stolen with a model back in the 90's), 1x56 (the first Gold Knight in Australia), 1 x 62, 2 x 65 (used in Old Timer Texaco events), 1 x 26cc (petrol for a Feisler Storch) and 1 x 36 petrol (for a Fairy Swordfish)
The only problem I have ever had with a Saito (except for spitting props due to change of climate) was when I flew into a crane in Cheras Malaysia and I had to fly to Singapore to get spares.
The 65's , 50's and 56's are favoured engnes for Texaco becaue they can be made exconomical and when fed steroids (40% + nitro) go well engough to be used in Duration (vertical drag racing)
Now when tey make a diesel (like Enya) then my life will be complete
FNQ FLYER

mike109

G'day up there in FNQ. What models do you build for duration and Texaco? I only have one old timer and it is an ARF Lanzo Bomber with a Saito 62 in it. I am not sure whether I could compete with it - I just got it to play with. I used to have a Playboy Snr a few years ago and I still have a half size Dalaire with a small PAW in it.

My Saito collection includes 30, 45 (very early one - runs very sweetly but could not pull the skin off a latte) 2 x 40, 56 (which really works for its living), 62, 3 x 65 (one new in box), 72 in a 40 size Space Walker, 90TS in a Anniversary Cub, 90R3 in a Sopwith Camel (waiting for me to get brave enough to fly it), 100 in a Four Star 60, 120 in a quarter scale Cub and 150 in a Four Star 120. I love 'em. They run well, they are easy to handle and they only sip the fuel. The little 40s really impress me for their light weight and power and the old 56 keeps pulling my Kadet Senior around when I am teaching people. I have just come back from giving a friend a fly of it.

I would like to build some old timers but sadly kits are not easy to find these days.

All the best from Dubbo.

Mike

mk1spitfire

Thanks, will give them a call.
I would have had a go myself but you need tool,don't know how much tool cost is,in comparrison to them doing it who have tools.