Craig 01

No problems here,except for humidity/damp on the ground floor of house where my engines/planes were being kept and i have since moved them to the shed,Yep,used to be a time when i to could go to local bearing supplier and get quality bearings of types wanted/needed at great prices but that was when i lived in western sydney and they had huge demand/turnaround/large customer base.Where i am presently the local supplier doesnt have a large stock and tends to keep cheaper chinese bearings that dont last and sells them for the price of quality jap,german etc bearings.Quality bearings need to be ordered in at a greater price again.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The instructions state that a syn/castor blend is acceptible. I have two Saitos, and early .80 and early 1.50 from 1991 and 1992 that were run on Fox %15 fuel with 20% castor for two seasons and WildCat 15% with 18% syn/castor blend since. The exhaust valves are a light brown color, original bearings are still in them, I simply don't understand the aversion to using a syn/castor blend.

Cherokee Flyer

Yep, mine done the same thing!

L.

FNQFLYER

Isn't there a CBC or Allied Bearings close by, I seem to remember on in Gympie which as I remember isn't all that far away. Here in Cairns we have 4 different bearing suppliers suplying a fairly diverse engineering base, not bad for a town dependant on tourism

FNQFLYER

Synthetic has better cooling and is a cleaner burn, I still use castor in my old Saitos and other glo engines, but castor in the modern one (I haven't used it but other club members have) causes more problems that it is worth, in my experience

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

My experience has shown that 18% all synthetic really promotes rust and the engines run hotter. It is amazing to me as to what a little castor oil added to the mix does for the engine.

I have not used 25% all castor fuel since back in the 70's but even then I experienced no internal carbon formations from the castor oil

MAAC

If heat is an issue then Caster is always the better oil. Usually at least 5% to 10% Caster and the balance synthetic. I like 22% total. Just can not go wrong with 22%.

MAAC

If heat is an issue then Caster is always the better oil. Usually at least 5% to 10% Caster and the balance synthetic. I like 22% total. Just can not go wrong with 22%.

Ops can't figure out how to delete second post. Sorry

MAAC

Great should have thought of Zinger. Now has anyone got a suggestion for the 200 ti V Twin?

ZedHead

Hello everyone. Hoping somebody can give me some suggestions. I started up my new 170 R3 radial for the first time this afternoon to break it in. It started easy after just a few flips of the prop, but it doesnt seem to firing on the bottom left cylinder. The exhaust pipe right next to the head is barely warm to the touch, while the other 2 are hot enough I can only touch them briefly. The mixture is slobbering rich for break in. I'm using the supplied glow harness and keeping the battery on full time. I was able to start it and run on just the problem cylinder (with the glow power to the other 2 plugs disconnected) so I think the glow plug and cylinder are ok. But I'm at a loss as to why that cylinder wont fire along with the other 2. I think I'll try to rotate my test stand to put the problem cylinder straight up and see what happens... Anybody got any ideas?
Thanks,
-
bruce

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Zed, f you rn it longer than 10 minutes you can safely lean the high speed needle to a better running setting, not anywhere near peak but smoother and warmer and about 5,500 rpm.

ZedHead

ok thanks Hobbsy, I'll give that a try in morning. I've been running it for about 5 minutes, then shutting down and letting it cool, so the the 2 cyl's that have been firing have about 20 minutes run time.

FNQFLYER

I find this comment interesting and I'll canvas the idea further amongst the Saito users here in Cairns and in Brisbane. Cairns is very humid, currently humidity is around 80%, (from Weather Department) and running the recommended 20% Koolpower and ATF after run at the end of the day (I also lean run the engine with the fuel line disconnected) I have no rust problems at all and most of my engines(except NIB's) are between 5 and20 years old.Mind you if I didn't use ATF or lean ran the engine (gets rid of all the fuel lurking in the engine) I would be up for a set of bearings every year at least
This process was developedin Malaysia when I worked there in the 90's and was common practise amongstthe Malaysian modellers where the humidity was at times 100%. It was so bad during the wet that a litre of fuel with thelidleft of the fuel bottle would increase in weight byabout 5% in a couple of hours due to water absorbtion.To combat this we would put the fuel in a fridge and decant iot after a couple of hours after the water came out of suspension and formed on the bottom of the fuel bottle

Rudolph Hart

Whatever floats your boat makes you happy in this hobby.I like a bit of castor and will try some castrol r soon like they used to run back in the day for speedway/speedcar offenhauser engines,smelt awesomely good and similar engine design too

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

If you can find some of this it will end your bearing rusting worries forever. I injected some of the CX into vent of this .80 and some actually came out through the bront bearing as it ususally does. So, you know it went through cam gear and lifter space and protects them as well

mk1spitfire

Isn't it the nitro that promotes the rust and not whether castor or synth is used???
My test was run the saito on 80meth 20castor NO NITRO
She ran fine, A slight drop in rpm

blw

My Feedback: (3)

To date, I haven't seen any data that shows synthetics protecting at higher temps than castor. Castor is a tremendous protectant when running hot and lean. Conversely, synthetics burn to ash and give no protection at that point.

Mk1Spitfire- castor offers rust protection. I wouldn't stop using nitro because of rust worries.

mk1spitfire

yer you're right,was really just proving to myself the saito would run without nitro, not coz of rust issue but did feel all oil whether synth or castor would both give rust protection.
Will a synth with nitro give more rust than castor with nitro?
Will a synth with NO nitro give more rust than castor no nitro?

What are your tips to put after run oil in engine with a fully cowled engine and long breather pipe?
Just run a liitle no nitro fuel through the engine after use?

rambler53

My Feedback: (494)

Lots of questions here:
I just bought a Saito 90TS on RCU (should be here in about a week),
it will need break in and then set up (prop/fuel/plugs).
I plan to put it on one of my .60 size Super Skybolts,
this will be my first twin I will personally use and would certainly want to avoid missing a step here.
Can someone who has used a Saito twin, help me here?

Do you consider onboard glow necessary?
What prop do you recommend for his combination?
Will Omega 15% fuel be adequate? I have good results with my Saito 56, 72, 82, 91. Would a 13X8 prop be OK for starters?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Onega 15% fuel will be fine

On board glow is not necessary

The twins have a lot of torque but do not turn the rpm of the singles

The 90TS has no problem with a 14 X 6

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

If you can't find the "CorrosionX" Hobbsy refers to in post 17162 above, "Seafoam DeepCreep" is a good substitute also. Both have a foaming action to help distribution. Usually found at Autozone or PepBoys here in the USA. Both come with a thin straw taped to the side; like what comes on a WD40 can (don't use WD40 as after run BTW). Stick the straw into the breather tube and fire away...it'll get there. Rotate the prop through a few revs to further help get it around inside. Some say that it's a good practice to store the planes nose down to help keep the front bearing wet...I hang the fuses that way any way 'cause it's easy and helps with storage space mgmt.

If you use ATF you can get a small syringe (woodshop supply, home depot, online, etc...used for applying glue) and use that to inject after-run oil into the breather tube as well.

Through the glo-plug hole works too, although not as well... most gets pushed out the exhaust rather than past the piston into the crank case.

spaceworm

Another source is at marine supply shops like West Marine and Boats Are Us. I think Mercury markets one. They are used to "fog" marine engines for winter or other long term storage.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The 90TS turns a 14x6 about as good as a single .90 but the .90 triple needs a 13x6 or a 13.5x6 like a Bolly. Neither needs any on board help as Jim already indicated.

i get my CX from www.corrosionx.com I used to get it from Sheldon's in Calif. but they changed hands and went mostly to car and electric stuff.

FNQFLYER

Corrosion X is used in the 1:1 aviation industry and also I believe in the marine industry for those of you who like to use it, however I found that it formed a "skin" on the surface of the metal that it was sprayed on.  100octane did dissolve it after a time what about nitro (rust enhamcer) does it dissolve it.  Also on full sized a/c the surface had to be clean and dry for it to do iots prevention work
\I am interested in finding out more about this cause it appears to be a good rust prevention method BUT I have had less than completely successful experiences with it in full sized a/c (in some cases) 

FNQFLYER

Castrol R and M both good stuff for diesels, (brings back memories)
re burn temps I thought Castor burnt at a lower temp than synthetic but I could be wrong. Once again drawing from 1:1 aviation normal refined oil is used for the run period of Lycoming and Continental engines then the oil type is swapped to "ashless dispersent" a synthetic that gives less carbon build up and better temp control.

All interesting discussions and I have been advised by my old flying mentor (model a/c) that I have been using approx 5% (no more) castor in my Saito 65 for some time, why because we have always done it, however in the 56 and the 62 no castor at all is used why because Saito says so. Don't know what I am currently using in the 30 or the 50 as I haven't used them in a long while. The Saito petrol engines haven't run yet but I'll follow Saito's guidelines there.

As an aside my YS 53's and 63's all run synthetic , lean run at the end of the day and a little after run or coolpower put down the carby, result no rebuilds required "yet" but some evidence of gung build up if they aren't used for a couple of months easily cleaned out with a bit of fduel through the system