JohnB96041

Two suggestions. First check your engine for any of the following markings G, H, RR, SS. If so get that muffler. Second suggestion. Call HH tech support and get the muffler that is for your engine. You can't go wrong by doing it this way. All of my engines are Saito and I have called tech support many times with simular concerns and questions. They have always given me the correct advice.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The difference is that out on the end of the first muffler, they machined a groove so that you can put a silicone extension on the muffler.

The second muffler, an extension will not stay on it but just slip off. Otherwise there is no difference in the mufflers.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You are paying $5.40 for the extra machining on the end of the muffler. If you do not run extensions on your mufflers you do not need the groove.

mike109

G'day

Paul, Condo and Brownie are quite a mob. They really go at the competitions to win.

Do you go to Paul's place at Easter? I was there a couple of years ago. The blokes from the Cowra club do the Saturday night BBQ and I was helping out as I was in the Cowra club at that time. These days I am about two hours further north.

I love my Saitos. My first was a tired 45 GK which I picked up for about $100. It went into a Kadet Senior about 20 years ago and then on and on and on and I think it is still going. I eventually gave it to a kid in Cowra. I think what I like most about Saitos is that with a bit of running on the bench behind them you can then put them in a model a bit rich and know that they will be able to run a bit rich but still pull the model around and they also rarely dead stick. Over the first half hour or so you can gradually dial them in and then just fly them.

My pair of FA-40s are my favourite at the moment. They are so powerful for their size and weight and my little 80% Hog really sings.

Cheers from Dubbo

Mike

mike early

Anyone know the part # for the saito 125 new cylinder?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The New one should be the only one available at this time? SAI125A01A

If you need a old style, I have three of them SAI125A01

nextofkin

My Feedback: (8)

you can always put jb weld around the end if you run a silicon extension I use it all the time.
nextofkin

spaceworm

You can also drill two small holes opposite each other near the exit end of the muffler. Then, take light wire and wrap it once around each side of the muffler outside, tucking the ends of the wires into the drilled holes. install youe silicone extension and then put a tie wrap upstream of the wires so that the wires keep the extension and tye wrap from slipping off. If the muffler tip is brass, just solder the wire to the tip, the holes are not needed. Also, wrap and solder around the ends of brass pickup and fill tubes in/for the tank.

mike early

Ahh, thanks.

Why do you have 3 of the old ones, have you updated them all?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The three cylinders are still on my three 125A's.

If I could sell them I would put the new type cylinders on these engines.

The original 125 cylinder is bad about breaking out the exhaust threads if you crash. That was the reason for the new cylinder on the 125 that I played with last Christmas. I tried to trade the owner out of it but I was unsuccessful.

rthalls

My Feedback: (63)

I have a sato 91 four stroke that the back of the muffler blew out , any ideas on how to make a muffler out of the front part ??? or is there a muffler out there for sale thanks Robert

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Don't ask him things like that!!!

rthalls

My Feedback: (63)

pm to mike early - you said you have three mufflers , is there on for a sato 91 [ has the inlet in the front] thanks [email protected]

tkline

how do I get sighned up I have a a .45,.50,.72,2-.90ft's,1.20 and I think that's all I may think of some more later

mike early

oof, I've lost a rocker cover screw.

Is this the replacement:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SAI6514 ?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Yes

blw

My Feedback: (3)

#689- tkline

welcome aboard

winglift

My Feedback: (10)

I have a Saito 100 that is very hard to start. It appears that it is getting a vapor lock when first starting. I prime it by turning the prop while covering the exhaust. Most of the time it does not start and the prop just stops and I notice that there is no fuel in the line to the carb. When it does that the prop stops and not able to turn it even using the electric starter.

When it does start it seems to run rough, but I think it is the low speed needle adjustment. I am wondering how critical the location of the fuel lines are? The fuel line to the carb goes from the tank and loops down before going through the firewall, from there it goes to a crap trap and loops to the carb.

The engine is mounted on its side. I initially had a two line tank installation with tees and fuel dots for the tank and vent, however I could not fill the tank w/o fuel coming out of the carb even though I was just starting to fill the tank, so I added an extra line in the tank just for fueling and defueling. That solved that problem, but still was puzzled why it did that.

spaceworm

With the original two line system, it appears you were filling with the vent line, and since the other line is the clunk line to the carb, the fuel was being forced by the air having to leave the tank to go into the carb. If you filled with the carb input line, this would not happen as the displaced air then goes out the vent line. You may have been filling the cylinder with fuel during the tank filling and causing a hydraulic lock which will keep the negine from turning over. Forcing it to turn in this condition could bend the connecting rod.

Your tank may not be ideally placed. Some people say the tank top should be even with the spraybar and others say the tank center should be. Oters say the spraybar should be 3/8 inch below the top of the tank. In any event, the tank and spraybar have to be "inline" with each other, and not too far away.

Sincerely,

Richard

winglift

My Feedback: (10)

Richard: That was the first thing that I checked, but I was filling it properly (the line w/ the clunk) which make me think that it was the routing of the fuel lines. I checked and double checked it, but it still came out of the carb. The top of the tank is about 1/2" above the spray bar.

spaceworm

If the vent line, even if it goes to the muffler pressure tap, is above the level of the fuel as you are filling the tank through the clunk line, only air will excape from the tank through the vent line. The tank top being 1/2 inch above the spraybar should not be a real problem, but if you are getting fuel leaking out of the carb, then I would lower the tank to where the tank top is even with the spraybar. No elevation difference equals no flow. Are you closing the carb barrel while you leave it sitting? If the problem persists, I would disconnect the carb line until right before startup. Routing of the fuel lines should not matter, it is where they start and stop that matters. Unless they are kinked, but then no flow would happen. Or if they are split, then your engine would suck air and not excess fuel.

winglift

My Feedback: (10)

I think that it was leaking out of the carb because as I mentioned that the line has a tee fitting which goes to a fuel dot, but I fixed that by running that line directly to the carb and adding another line with a clunk for fueling. My biggest concern now is why it locks up when trying to start it. I can prime it okay, covering the exhaust and turning the prop, but most of the time when I put the electric starter on it, it locks up hard to the point where the rubber insert on the starter spins on the spinner while pressing it down hard. I can do this ten times or so before I get it started. Another interesting thing is that after running it to temp for a few minutes and shutting it down, I experience the same thing, locking up etc.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The cylinder is probably full of fuel when it locks up?

spaceworm

Are you closing the carb barrel when you fuel the tank? Is the vent line unclogged? The only difference between the T fitting and the separate clunk line is convenience, the same pressures are created in the system. It sounds like your vent line is obstructed so that the fuel is being forced into the carb, and filling the cylinder with fuel and causing hydraulic lock which causes the piston not to pass go and collect $200.00.

Over and out. Good luck.

bandit409

Can someone tell me how to ask a question in the "Club Sato Forum" or is this where I can ask?