Mr Cox

I would like to see those SEM images and EDS spectra. Was the head attached to the cylinder, is that even possible? Why not just look at the head on its own?
The working distance in the SEM greatly affects the resolution and the secondary electron yield is also greatly reduce when looking down a hole.

Mr Cox

I'm stunned, after all this bashing of engines, left and right, it now turns out that you don't even run any engines yourself....?

Konrad

Saito manufactures the head and cylinder on the engines I looked at as one unit. That is why I had to look down the cylinder to see the seats. And yes the images were not the best. But they did confirm that the seat was NOT chrome. That was the point of the exercise.


Konrad

MaxAdventure

My Feedback: (7)

Hopefully my post will show my experience of why it's usually best to segregate the discussion of power source from a specific thread (vs one asking what are the power options) so comments aren't taken wrong as they so often are on discussion boards.

Sadly, I think I'm going to have to sell some of my newly acquired Saito engines I was really looking forward to using next season due to loss of employment. I'll still read and salivate over this Saito thread!

Konrad

Sorry to hear you have to (forced) sell some of your engines.
I too see the virtues of both the Glow and Electric power source. I have built both types of power plants.

If you have read my posts over the years you will see that I base my comments from the perspective of a performance enthusiast, be that glow or electric. I have many views that are counter to the norm. Many here try to discredit my view because I now fly electric only in my personal fleet. They think this shows that I don't know my subject matter . My flying electric does not mean that I think electric is superior to glow. Just that I have reached my goals with glow and am now seeking to overcome the challenges of electric. That is why I gave notice to keep the subject about engines and not me.

And Yes, I use the term "slimer power" as a term of endearment, I was covered in the stuff for decades. I also wear the term "Sparky" as a badge of honor.

So style equates to bashing?


On the subject of efficiency is not the electric motor orders of magnitude more efficient thermally than the IC engine? Now as a whole system from the acquisition of materials used for power to turning the prop this might not be so.

All the best,

Konrad

P.S.
The moderators should not have allowed the comments by Broken Wings and Old Fart to stand. They added nothing to the discussion! If they had been deleted I would not have had to make comment defending my position about not flying glow (slimer power ) I asked that these be struck from the form, but as the moderators saw it fit to let them stand I had the comment.

Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

Why not.....[sm=bananahead.gif]?...............

As far as I'm concerned its all conjecture.

Konrad

As noted earlier the scans were not of a very high quality

Actually I did not record any data from this session. Any requests would require your samples to be scanned.

All the best,

Konrad

Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

Are you saying that you didn't pay for the SEM time (and used it anyway...) and that is the reason that you don't have anything to back up your statements?

I can understand your not wanting the owner of a piece of equipment that he paid for to not find out that you were using it to diagnose "toys" as you call them...

What would be the point of an analytical report when all I have to do is log onto this forum and ask..."How do you like your Saito Engine"....

If I need something "pinched" I'll be sure to look you up.[X(]

Konrad

Response in red

Konrad

MaxAdventure,
If you liked the information about the "aluminum"? I think you will like what I post about the ports, once I finish the drawing, if you can get pasted my "style".

My condolences if you have to sell your Saito babies.

All the best,
Konrad

Rudolph Hart

Jeez mate over here we'd be calling you a 007 grade wa#nker by now

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

LOL OF

Konrad

What I'd like to learn is how does the power curve look for the 1.30 twin? How much flow interference is there with the dual carbs facing each other? How effective is the carb baffle. Are there any maintenance issues with the crankcase pump?

All the best,

earlwb

BrokenWings, 
    I was running my two Saito FA-40a engines yesterday in preparation for mounting them on my new F82 Twin engine plane I am working on.
I more or less followed the instructions that Saito mentioned in their booklet. Run the engines extra rich and try not to exceed 6,000 RPMS for a while in order to get them lubed up good on the inside. I kept the glow plug ignitor on for a while to run them extra rich too.
After that I leaned them out some, but not all the way yet. After a couple of tanks through them, I tweaked the needle valves as needed.
I was using a 11x6 prop, as that seems to be what the engines tend to like.





Oh yeah, and a simple video clip of me running one of them here:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zd9690a-CFs[/youtube]

Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

I haven't gotten around to running mine yet.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Earl,

4000 or 6000 rpms for the first 10 minutes?

mike early

Finally tried some 30% Nitro. Guy gave me some Jack Youngblood with 23% synthetic oil. It added about 4-500RPM over 15% in my saito 72 with a Powerpoint 13x8. Transition was definitely crisper. Made one hell of a mess. I presume that's the extra 5% of oil. First time I ever used pure synthetic oils. I'll just stick with wildcat 15% (hobbytown USA branded).

mike early

stumbled across this:
http://www.authorstream.com/Presenta...pt-powerpoint/

everyone loves saito photos

CustomPC

I'm back in the club.

I've just bought a Saito .62 to go on my Big Stik 40. My first glow engine was a Saito .62 and since then i've had many other brands but i still have sweet memories of my first .62 so decided my Big Stik needs a new donk.

I also bought the Saito Prop not for electric starter. Can someone explain how to use it.

There is a thick washer and the "nut" which is hollowed out on the inside and i presume you are meant to use standard nut first, then put the spinner on.

Do i also need to use the Jam nut? It looks like it might fit under the spinner nut when it it is tightened. It certainly doesn't fit when finger tight.

Thanks

earlwb

I kept the RPMs down to around 4,000 for aproximately ten minutes, with the engine running extra rich. I then bumped it up to 6,000 RPMs for a while too. After a full tank was run through the engines, I ran the engines a little harder, for short periods, leaning it out gradually as time when on. I eventually got it up to around 9,600 to 9,700 rpms and left it on the rich side at that point. I didn't try to peak them out any more after that. I'll finish running them in on the airplane now.

earlwb

Well, I don't know what a "Saito Prop not for electric starter" is. I would need more information about it.

You install the prop, prop washer and then the prop nut with the hollowed out part onto the engine like normal. You then take the little jam nut, and screw it on and tighten it up against the prop nut. Yes it does fit together in the hollowed out part but under pressure when you tighten it up. It serves as a jam nut and helps to lock the two nuts onto the crankshaft to minimize the prop coming loose when the engine is running.

If you are using a aluminum spinner. it normally requires a special prop nut so you can use a screw to hold the front of the spinner on the engine. In this case it can be a hassle as there may not be enough threads left on the crankshaft for everything. So you'll have to compromise and decide on what you have to put on or leave off then.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Earl, I have a set procedure I use to break in a new Saito, it works perfectly every time. The engine is broken in in about 40 minutes just like Saito suggests and it only takes about 32 oz of fuel. Unless the engine is a big one.

FNQFLYER

I never cease to be astounded by some of the writings on this site and the other one about the Saito gas engines and the lengths people go (on gas engines particularly) to "fix" things.
Re running in new engines, Saito give a very good method (at least with the data we have here in OZ) on how to run in their engines.  The only variation to that that I do is follow the advice given to me at the Saito factory.  "Run the engines as rich as they will run and progressively lean them out as they bog down with excess fuel, that is become "to rich because the engine is being run in."   The man told me that and I quote "The engine will tell you when to lean it out" and it does and you continue this process until the desire / outlined factory specs are obtained.  I as per factory advice, run the engine for one tank full rich, and once it will sustain a respectable RPM then put them in a trainer or siilar a/c and fly the engine leaning it out until it reaches peak performance, usually over several flights.  This has worked well for me and my compatriots and a number of mt fellow competitors out here.
This business of constantly pulling down examining analysising the build factors and specs of engines to me just gets in the way of doing what these engines are intended for and that is powering the models of my choice.
On the gas engine subject out here I have come across a number of people all of whom have had nothing but good experiences with the gas engines, yes there were problems with the FG 20 carb in some cases (fixed by either getting a new carb or modiying the taper on the needle valve) but the one thing every one had in common they didn't second guess the manufacturer and followed the run specs as outlined (and in some cases used Horizon Hobbies data as a supplementry)
Saito put out good engines and when used as intended (or in my case stretching a friendship but only a little) they perform well and need very little if any tinkering and they last a long time.  

FNQFLYER

Re spinner nuts/ spinners.  I use the Dubro product.  Lock the prop with the original nut and run the spinner on and up to the nut.  This provides both a locking nut and a place for the starter cone to engage the prop.
Scale modeles are different and require a more detailed approach.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Earlwb, I believe that what CustomPC was trying to say was that he "..bought the Saito Prop nUt for electric starter. It resembles a rounded over Safety Nut of sorts.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI120S30

I'm guessing that it was just a typo......

Bob