w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

With the scale warbird type planes and the AT-6 actually fits the war bird factor much better than the J-3 Cub setup, you need a little more pitch. The 14 X 8 may be more liked than a 15 X 6

Sharpeye22

I went back to the copy of my order form and here is the info for the cam gear that makes the FS56a counter rotate.

The cam gear has a dot on one sideof the gear and at 180 degrees there is a vertical slash. Idonot remember which one I put facing down with the engine at top dead center but it is not the one that would be down when installed in the engine the cam gear was orginally made for.

SAI130T34

Cam Gear,Left:R,S,AA

$13.19

1

$13.19

spaceworm

My bad, must be a case of senioritis. Thanks all for the prop and fuel comments.

Sincerely, Richard

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Thanks a lot for the info!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

That's the left hand cylinder cam for for the 130 Twin.

The reason I started the question is that it has been a few years since Bill Robison talked about this.

The rear cam for the Saito 100Ti was discovered to be the big cam for the 62 through 110 and the 125 engines.

I remember him talking about it. but I didn't remember the details

If I were to install this cam, I would try using the dot first and to see where the overlap was (was it across top dead center). If it wasn't correct, I'd try the line.

mike early

Does one use a pusher prop when using a reverse cam?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

But you have to mount it backwards

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

But you have to mount it backwards

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

But you have to mount it backwards

Sabreryder

My Feedback: (6)

Have a Saito 100 in my Sig Senior Kadet with Flaps

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I like those "Barn Door" controls on the wing. They usually have just strip ailerons and flaps.

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

Hi w8ye, So glad for the discussion of counter-rotating/pusher props. Have a Royal P-38 & was going to set up like that, ...... but would have never realized had to turn prop around. Will it have the same "bite" as its' mate on the other side?

Many Thanx T-man49

Sabreryder

My Feedback: (6)

Built those in. When I drop the flaps the plane will stop and fly backward in any wund. It will do rolling circles and even hover for a few seconds

rcbears

My Feedback: (40)

I have a bunch of Saito's and I run them on 20% nitro. It realy lites them up.

rcbears

My Feedback: (40)

I have a bunch of Saito's and I run them on 20% nitro. It realy lites them up.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You will have to naurally take notice of the pusher prop and try to match the style with the tractor prop as best you can.

Set the props side by side and with close observation, it will be obvious how to mount the pusher prop on the left hand engine.

SRQFlyer

My Feedback: (17)

Hi,
I've come to the experts for help. I have a whole bunch of Saitos - 50, 56, 72, 82, 91, 100, 120 DP, (2) 150s - all run great EXCEPT the .82. I bought this second-hand (no box, papers, etc.). It has an "A" stamped on the lug, plastic backplate, old (high camcover) case.

Now to the problem: I cannot get a decent idle under mid 4000's. It has a tendency to act and sound real lean, even when it is not. Eliminate the following: Plug - Fox "Miracle" or "F" - no difference; fuel - 15% all synthetic used in all the Saitos, use a lot so it is fresh; Prop - 13/7 APC, 14/6 MA, others - no difference. Timing - I am the guy that rebuilds engines for the club members, but I did re-check it several times. There may have been an air leak somewhere in the intake route - at the head or just past the carb. It seemed better when I added another aluminum "pressure" washer at the head (from my .91). I have replaced the two o-rings and doubled up on the pressure washers, but I won't be able to run it until Tuesday.

Here's an interesting note - Saito lists the HS needle as being the same for .50 through 1.25 engines but I have compared the needles and found that the older (gold and black box, blue and beige box) engines have a blunter shape with a squared-off end. I'm wondering (remember the "A" on the lug) if this was an older engine and the "sharper" NV could be a problem.

Any help greatly appreciated,

Jim

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 82 has only been out about 6 years

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Back the LS needle out about 1.5 turns, peak the HS needle at absolute peak, leave it there temporaritly and reset the LS needle.

FNQFLYER

Is that Sig a Cadet or a Senior.  I am building at this present point in time a SIG Senior and it doesn't have flaps or Ailerons.  I am contemplating that mod on a second wing and would be interested in knowing what was done to get the flaps and ailerons onto the wing.

My Senior  (3 Channel) will be used to test a number of various motors to be used in scale models and to get "air time on them before they go into the scale ones.  The big question is how will the FG36 go in this model, maybe a bit over powered but I expect to put a 115 up front.  I did have the use of  one in Malaysia that had an OS 91 that was used for glider launching, not owned by me but I used it a bit.  Gliser was launched of the top of the wing.  WE had ones up to 100 inch ws on the top and it worked well 

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I had a 2S that acted similarly... It was a 2nd hand engine. When I checked more closely, I found that it had lost its compression. THe engine had been discontinued and was otherwise in good shape. Too bad, because I could not get another piston/sleeve for it.

Could your problem be lack of compression or a stuck valve/lifter? Or have these already been checked?

Bob

SRQFlyer

My Feedback: (17)

Re: My Saito .82 problems - thanks for the help so far!

W8ye - Thanks for the info - I guess that rules out the NV as a possible problem

Hobbsy - I will test run it again Tuesday with the new intake tube o-rings and I'll try what you suggest then - thanks

N1EDM - The valves are OK (as in not stuck). It has awesome compression (it is nearly new) and will turn up about 10K. It wouldn't run with a stuck valve. I know what you mean about low compression - it makes setting the low end difficult - 2C or 4C. Thanks for the ideas.

Jim

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

SRQFlyer,

Glad to hear that the engine is in good shape... that makes things a lot easier. If no one has mentioned it before, what is the status of the LSN and the HSN? Are they near the factory default values? That's about all I can offer... I'm sure other guys have good ideas...

Bob

SRQFlyer

My Feedback: (17)

Bob,

LS needle is just about flush with outside of throttle arm - maybe 1/8 turn recessed. HS needle is open about 1-3/4 turns. Tuesday will tell if the (supposed) leak at the intake tube was the culprit. I'm also going to try what Hobbsy suggested, which is essentially richening up the low end, tuning the top end and sneaking up on the low end. I'll report back Tuesday night.

Thanks,

Jim

Rudolph Hart

One and three quarter turns out on the main needle does'nt sound like enough.I normally start about two and a quarter turns out and sneak back in.