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Old 02-15-2011, 02:09 PM
  #19576  
FNQFLYER
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Old Fart  Interesting to hear about the 220.  I expect the same with the FG36.  My neighbours son with the new R/C car has been trying to get it working despite lack of assistance from the LHS he bought it from.

Couple of things, hand starting that beast very brave boy methinks, I have been advocating electric starters for some years (along with my peers) and every time I deviate from that I usually get a sore finger or hand, pain inflicted by irate prop.

Lastly have you OZ guys noticed the differences between what info we are given on 4 strokes (in particular YS and Saito) and what our brethern in the USA are told.  The latest thing I have noticed refers to YS engines the 63 in particular.  The USA people (elsewhere on this site) quote 20 / 20 for fuel mix (we are quoted 30 nitro 20 min oil usually synthetic and in my case I was advised to use the you beaut heli oil) they quote an operating rpm of 11,000rpm equating it to Saito 62 and 1.6 hp.  Now we would not buy one that didn't turn a 13 x 6 APC at 13,000 rpm at least (on 30%) and we expect in excess of 2.5 hp. 

I have noted similar differences with Saito specs and recomendations and I wonder why.  Any one have any ideas  
Old 02-15-2011, 03:00 PM
  #19577  
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FNQFLYER,

Hand starting the FG-36 is a scary ordeal. I had numerous hand starts until I finally got a stronger starter. A leather glove was a must.

Jim
Old 02-15-2011, 05:03 PM
  #19578  
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I have a great big electric starter for these gas engines and I will be using that.  A long time ago I determined that one of God's gifts to model aviation was the electric starter in all its versions and I have yet to be converted from that path though I do own up to being forgetful occassionally and have paid the appropriate penalty.
BTB I have discovered that electric starters are great for "Leroy's revenge"  aka Cox 049s one problem the motor is isually faster than the starter a prblem easily overcome though
Old 02-15-2011, 05:39 PM
  #19579  
rcdude7
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One thing to always remember when starting a large engine by hand, when you swing that prop through its arc , FOLLOW THROUGH just like swinging a baseball bat.
Old 02-16-2011, 04:17 AM
  #19580  
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Thanks for the caution guys,it's a great feeling to prime it right and flick it backwards you did mean to start it yes?
Old 02-19-2011, 03:40 PM
  #19581  
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People, while trolling the RCM plans site I came across the old Saito Engine book that I always use as a reference source.  They say that it a copy of the original but that should not be a bother.
Over the years it has been a tremendous help to both myself and others that I have acquired it for and I would heartily recommend it to any one who owns a Saito.  I suspect that it won't have the modern engines but it does cover (or at least mine does and it is 10 years old minimum) most of the engines in use today
Old 02-19-2011, 04:24 PM
  #19582  
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Hello FNQFLYER,

I have the original book... as you say, it is well worth the cost for anyone who needs a bit more information about how Saito engines work, and 4C engines in general.

I didn't realize that they still had one available...

Bob
Old 02-19-2011, 08:29 PM
  #19583  
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Yep, plan on getting that book myself next time I order from RCM Plans.
Old 02-20-2011, 03:24 AM
  #19584  
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Yes i would like that book too,just got hold of harry higleys engine book and am enjoying the reading.Ran the 220 again today and after 4 14oz tanks really rich i leaned it off gradually over 2 tanks and ended up around 2 turns out on the main and 1 turn in on the low speed needle pulling a steady 7900 with the 20x8mas great fun today
Old 02-20-2011, 06:41 AM
  #19585  
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Hey you guys in Oz do engines run backwards down there as water does when it runs out of the lavatory?

slopoke
Old 02-20-2011, 08:20 AM
  #19586  
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The water spinning down the drain different down under is an urban myth. [8D]

From the The Land of Oz, Kansas. Born there, lived there, don't want to ever do that again. Sincerely,

Richard
Old 02-20-2011, 12:39 PM
  #19587  
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I was stationed there. The only thing that I noticed different in Kansas was didn't blow, it sucked.
Old 02-20-2011, 02:47 PM
  #19588  
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Sorry to bring up and old topic, especially one that has been beat to death in this forum.

Saito 125 vibration. Same old story. I picked up a 125 on ebay, changed the bearings and cleaned the inside of the engine. As far as I can tell the cam is in time, and the valves are set to about .003 or so. New fuel (15% FS Powermaster), new Prop and OS F plug. Set the HS Needle as close as I could and the Engine fired right up and I've ran about a gallon of fuel through it.

Very smooth low end and transition seem to be very crisp. However.... Starting at about 1/2 throttle, the engine begins to shake and at full throttle I can barely focus on the valve covers. Trying to adjust the HS Needle is like trying to grab the end of and engraving pencil. I have tried a couple different props that are balanced to the best of my ability. The last one was a APC 15-8 and the first was a MAS 16-6 wooden.
I changed the bearings again, this time from BOCA. No change.
I did notice the that the rear bearing slid onto the crank with no effort. It didn't feel loose, but it does slide on and off by hand. Do I need a crank?

This is my first 4 stroke and the "good old boys" network ant my local field are less that interested in helping. It seems that if it's not a YS, don't bother....

From what I read in this forum, Horizon Hobbies can be hit and miss with used engine repair and I don't want to throw any more money into this engine if the vibration problem can't be fixed.

I am hopping that I can send the engine to one of you more experienced folks for testing and tuning and tell me if I'm wasting my time and just buy a new engine. I will be happy to Paypal the money or your time.

John
Old 02-20-2011, 02:58 PM
  #19589  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

My Saito-125 does not vibrate badly like you describe, and is no worse than any other 4-stroke engine
of that size.
I found that the Top-Flite magnetic balancer is helpful for balancing the prop.

Buying a used engine on eBay is a risk. Maybe it has hit the ground and slightly
bent the crank???
Old 02-20-2011, 04:32 PM
  #19590  
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Johnboy,

You did not mention any adjustment to the high side needle. Saito's will vibrate when rich. Follow the standard tuning procedure if it is rich when at full throttle. Eliminate a tuning problem before looking at a crank problem. If you lean the high side it may smooth out. Get the tune right and then look at other issues. You may want to do a run out of the crank if problems persist. Good luck.

Jim
Old 02-20-2011, 04:55 PM
  #19591  
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The last high end Tach reading I took was a little over 8800 RPM with a 15-8 APC. (the only prop I had left) The HS is only turned out a little more than two turns from bottom. Does this sound right?
Old 02-20-2011, 05:07 PM
  #19592  
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I have several 125's and they run between 1 3/4 and two turns on the high speed. None of them vibrate like you mention.
Old 02-20-2011, 05:13 PM
  #19593  
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Thanks. I will set it a 1 3/4 and run it up again tomorrow. Just looking for some experienced answers.
Old 02-20-2011, 05:52 PM
  #19594  
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Another vibration thought?

Had a friend with a engine vibrating bad. Went to his house and it was his test stand. The vibration had nothing to do with the engine itself.
Old 02-20-2011, 06:06 PM
  #19595  
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Sorry to be the voice of inexperience here, but that thought did cross my mind and I changed nothing.
The largest engine I have run on my current stand is a ST .75 2 stroke.
Would you suggest that I build a test stand with a proper engine mount and firewall to simulate the actual airframe? Sure wouldn't hurt to try.

Thanks!
Old 02-20-2011, 07:30 PM
  #19596  
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I have an American Hobby Products Jumbo hard maple/Birch ply test stand that I use on everything from Saito 50's to Saito 220's. It is fastened to the end of a saw horse. I've been using it about ten years.


Old 02-20-2011, 07:33 PM
  #19597  
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My friend that had test stand trouble had a notch cut in the end of a piece of CDX plywood nailed to an old foyer table with the engine held down with wood screws.

Wood screws in wood will back out faster than you can get the engine shut off.
Old 02-20-2011, 07:50 PM
  #19598  
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The setup I have is very similar to yours, but not as refined. I will try and run the 125 again tomorrow with the leaned HS.
Old 02-21-2011, 04:56 AM
  #19599  
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I think it is your lsn you have yet to combine it properly with the high speed needle they run so sweet then
Old 02-21-2011, 08:23 AM
  #19600  
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I hope you're right. That's why I'm asking for experienced help.

John


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