w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

What about the fabulous Saito sound?

spaceworm

You could copy the sound bite from the Saito website and put it in a MPG player with speakers in the plane and really * their minds.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Www.Aerosoundrc.com

Nikolas K

Hello Saitonuts!
I recently started to break in my Saito FA-30S, bought new. In the process of breaking in (using 15% Tornado Heli fuel), I could not provide the conditions necessary for initial operation, i.e. could not hold RPM down to 4000, although I had opened the needle valve 3 turns etc. I should close the throttle slightly more, but due to a bad test stand construction I could not do it immediately. That is why I now know that obtaining a proper test stand is first and utmost in good engine break in...
To make things worse, I could not stop the engine when the fuel tank was emptying, so the engine operated for some seconds in very lean conditions.
Anyway, because I felt I had ruined the engine, I disassembled it to see its condition. What I saw was not very encouraging. The piston had scuffings on its skirt and was light tanned. I know tese are symptoms of lean operation and lack of lubrication. iDisappointed, I reassembled the engine.
I would like the opinion of a Saito doctor here, are these scuffings sign that I should change the piston or give it some more running in? The engine has less than two tanks operating time...Is it possible that the piston ring needs also replacement? I checked the inside of the cylinder and looked ok. I also have satisfying compression.
Thank you.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The next time you want to stop an engine just pinch the fuel line between your fingers and it will stop immediately. I don't think you hurt the engine any. Is this an older .30 or the newer very small .30, they have very different construction? Thanks

The little .30 is on the right.

hsukaria

Hobbsy,
It's interesting that the oil drain nipple got used to be off to the side ot the crankcase instead of the rear backplate. I am new to Saito and just noticing these things.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Here are 3 of the different positions. Left to right, Saito .40a, FA .40, and the same Saito .30

hsukaria

That's crazy. Which is the most recent design? The 1.8 I got with the plane I bought has the drain in the backplate.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The .40a is the newest one and has the new style case, my 2.20 was also in the new style case but had the vent in the backplate.

hsukaria

So the location of the vent varies with model I suppose.

Also, I noticed that the high speed needle spring is very light on my 1.8. So the needle moves too easily. Is there something I need to fix to make it stiffer?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Take the needle all the way out and flex the spring clip in until it stays in a little farther than it does now and it will put more pressure on the needle wheel.

hsukaria

ok, thanks.

FNQFLYER

For all who might be interested. an update on my engine selection for my Stinson.  My old mentor has 2 of Saitos for sale both NIB both $150 each or swap one for a 75inch P47 ARF that I have got, one is a "Saito 100" (I think he means a 110 and the other is a 115.  I've done some measurements and if I choose to go SR8 version rather than SR 7 version of the Reliant I can get away with extending the f/glass cowl I purchased from F/Glass Specialities and by cutting the cowl blisters carefully I should be able to conceal the rocker covers as "blisters" by painting them the same colour as the cowl.
Any way I go south next week so I will take posession of both and trial fit them to see which "fits" better.  A totally better solution to using the 82 but I will have to re configure the radio layout to get the Cof G correct.  NmH batteries are lighter than the NiCad ones and smaller (I am using enelops) for the same rating so I just might up grade to a bigger capacity battery (s) so in any case win win so far.
Will let you know more.  The 82 has a new home, in the front of my Sig Cadet Senior trainer.  But that is another story.  

Nikolas K

Hobbsy, it is just like the engine on the right, but not Golden knight. I did not understand, is the engine on the left a .30 size engine???[sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Nik, there is an early .30 that is the same physical size as the FA .40, here is a picture of an older FA .40 and the new .40a. The .40a is very little larger than the newest .30.

Nikolas K

Ok, then I guess it is the same trend that Saito follows, reducing engine dimensions. The FA-30S is like the left engine (old type crankcase) but with the dimensions of the right engine (apparently the new FA-40)...
Note, the FA-30s is the same since it came out, I think in 1999. In the 70s and 80s, Saito was manufacturing an older .30 engine but it was an open rocker and it was their first four stroke glow engine...

pmfennellnh

My Feedback: (13)

Hello

How do I join club saito? [email protected]. Thanks in advance for your help.
Peter

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Peter, I'll put you on the club list tomorrow as I'm using an iPad right now away from my main computer. PM me if I forget. Welcome to Club Saito.

Ernie Misner

FYI - the Harry Higley's 1/4x32 die is selling for $16 something at Tower. I called our local Tacoma Screw Products and they ordered me one for $9 something. Quite a bit cheaper.

Ernie

mschulz531

I just checked on TowerHobbies and found this link:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?I=LXL774&P=8

are we talking about the same thing?

TH has it listed on that link @ $7.29.

OOPS - THAT IS THE TAP, NOT THE DIE...MY BAD

Ernies right on the die...$16.79. Thanks for the heads up.

-Mike

tacx

My Feedback: (1)

Hi All,

Got a muffler problem on a Saito 220. Can't keep the muffler on. Threads in the cylinder hub are somewhat worn, but the manifold pipe will screw in. Hub has about half good threads left. Have tried heating the engine and tightening the pipe to the point I am afraid of breaking the cylinder. Muffler still wont stay on when engine heats up.

MY question:.... I want to run it without the muffler. I plan to install the pressure nipple into the header pipe. The engine runs great with the muffler on. I test ran it with the muffler off and it ran OK at idle and low speed (this was without the pressure tube connected), but when I tried to throttle up it would die quickly.

What needle adjustments would be required when removing the muffler from a good running engine?

By the way I also asked this question in RCGroups, so please I don't need berating from the forum police. LOL

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Tom

hsukaria

You plan on running the engine without a muffler? How loud is that?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The increase in noise is not significant.

You can send your cylinder off and get an custom threaded insert insert installed for around $30.

Clarence Lee

Lee's Custom Engines
10112 Woodward Ave.
Sunland, CA 91040
818 352 3766

tacx

My Feedback: (1)

I have run the engine for a short test run without the muffler. Surprisingly, as w8ye has stated, it was not that much louder than with the muffler.

hsukaria

Tom,
Where do you fly? I work in Washington Township and live in Dearborn. I normally fly in Detroit, close to home. But where is the nearest club to Washington Township?