hsukaria

Earlwb, that is the coolest (or hottest) setup I've ever seen. I guess you have to be careful not to burn yourself adjusting the high speed needle being that close to the exhaust pipe.

All this is interesting info about the nitro content and compression. My Saito feels like high compression, but then I don't have anything similar to compare it to.

slopoke

My Feedback: (16)

Ok give us the details.

mike early

more photos of this engine!
photos of the twin .40 plane!

Please.

earlwb

Here is one of the earlier threads about the supercharger: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_15...tm.htm#1580599

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Hey Earl, here's one that doesn't need a super charger, my older Saito .30 on an LT 25 kit. I'll cover the wing tomorrow.

clytle374

That supercharger has me thinking again that would be perfect for a gas conversion

Got a few questions after my first Saito power flight today. It's a cowled 100 mounted inverted.

First, was easily able to start the engine for break in on the bench with a stick. Under the cowl I couldn't get it to prime reliability, then broke the stick and tore up the prop the first time it fired. This stick doesn't work http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFU02

I used a another guys starter trying to be sure it wasn't flooded, still stalled the starter a few times. Is it normal for the engine to have a slight click when turning it over? I thought it might be the cam gears. I think I might be a bit paranoid and really didn't want to use a starter on it. But after an hour of sweating in the sun I did it anyway.

Next, I couldn't get the engine to turn over 9000 with a 15x6 prop. The engine had one gallon through it for break in, so it's still breaking in? What should I expect rpm wise?

Thanks
Cory

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Cory, that click is perfectly normal, it is the cam accelerating forward when the cam follower goes over the hump on the cam.

clytle374

That's kinda what I thought, but the paranoid mind clearly envisioned the bend rod jumping forward and backwards on the crank pin

Cory

I also used a plastic fuel Tee for venting purposes while filling about 2" from the muffler, it melted down. Will the exhaust gas met them?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Hey Cory, do you know Bobby Dove, he and Ronnie Neel are long time friends of mine, Bobby and Ronnie are fellow motorcycle riders and Saito users.

clytle374

Does Bobby run a hobby shop? If so I do. I know he's big on bikes.

Cory

mschulz531

I bought one of these sticks as well; it broke within a few flips - I agree - totally worthless.
-Mike

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Yep, that's him at Apex Hobbies and he lives in Princeton.

earlwb

I wonder if they changed the plastic formula or something. I have been using one for maybe 20 some odd years and it works Ok for me. This last weekend I used it on a Enya 1.20 I had just fixed back up.
I think a length of garden hose shoved down onto a length of wood dowl rod would work good too. Maybe glue it on a little to keep it from moving.
I think the problem is if the engine passes some certain displacment size then trying to use a chicken stick on it becomes a problem, so you might be better off using a welder's leather glove instead.

hsukaria

That's what I am wondering about with my Saito 1.8. I will be starting it up in a couple of weeks and don't know if my engine starter will work, or use a chicken stick, or leather glove. I was able to turn over the engine with the starter, but fairly slowly. I wonder if reversing the electric starter and popping the engine backwards against the compression?

clytle374

Yep they changed the formula, the dowel is now plastic. Been looking around for a better stick and found this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0&I=LXC019&P=K funny thing is they state for up to 14" props. I've got a 15" prop, but not sure why that matters exactly.

I realized we have an old Royal starter that feels to have much more power. I also remember they used to sell a belt reductions for starters, I can't find one now. They do have starters with belt reductions, but are real expensive.

I might try the welding glove, if I could reliably prime it, and not break my fingers. I hate broken fingers.

Cory

mschulz531

I found a glove in my garage with just the right amount of padding; I've been using it and it works great.
If I ever decide to use a stick again, I'll make my own from a section of thick dowel rod and a piece of garden hose.
-Mike

clytle374

Okay, I'll try the glove...fingers heal

I flooded it when trying to plug the exhaust. So how do I get a prime without flooding a cowled and inverted engine?

Cory

davcoz

My Feedback: (17)

I just bought a Saito 90ts. I would like some suggestions on what to put in other than the obvious Cub. This is my tenth Saito. I really can't resist them.
Thanks for your help.

Dave

mike early

Use trial and error to determine the exact number of prop turns with muffler plugged to prime. It will probably be 1 or 2 turns, depending on fuel tubing length, engine size, etc....

earlwb

Something like a .40 size Ultmate Biplane would be cool. It has a cowl design that just looks right for a twin engine in it.
Several other planes have a cowl design like that as well that would work too, such as the Great Planes RV-4 for .40 t o .50 engines.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ581&P=0

panhandledon

I have 2 - 72's, 1- 82 and 2 100's. I routinely break in all my engines. My problem is with the new 82. Too much vibration. two other members have told me they have the same problem. The valves are adjusted, the low end has been leaned to a little rich, Prop balance is ok. Anybody have some guidance for me?

Rudolph Hart

Phd it sounds like the engine is still way too rich

FNQFLYER

On the starter thing.  I usually don't prime my engines as such.  Those with muffler pressure I usually turn once with my finger closing off the exhaust outlet the others I just don't bother.  I open the throttle to what I know is just above idle and turn over with the electric starter.  Haven't had any problems to date (that is when every thing else it up to scratch).
On starters here in OZ you can get a "big" Thunder Tiger Starter that coupled with a good /well charged gell cell (motor bike) battery turns any Saito I've come across including the big petrol engines.  (Not mine other peoples).  I have yet to try it out on the 50cc beast  but I think a lot of the ability of the starter to turn and engine comes down to the power getting to the starter.  Off course you can't keep turning the engine over and over and still expect it to perform, just like a car or 1:! type a/c 

johnS555

My Feedback: (27)

You bee`s right on the power to the starter being the secret, I have a 180 starter mounted on a 7 amp gel cell 12 volt with about 4 inches of wire to it and can turn my friends 30 DLE real easy..the secret is in the length of the wire for voltage drop......


John Saito # 119

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Regarding the starting, there is also one more item to consider. Rotate the prop backwards until it bumps against the compression. Then put the starter to it. Letting it rotate loosly before the engine comes up on compression is usually enough to get the starter to spin the engine up. If you start with the prop already on compression, it will be difficult with that size engine. I'm also using an old Sullivan starter and a 7AH gel cell.

Just my $.02

Bob