clytle374

I got one on the way, and got free shipping since I got my Dad to order the Saito 82 for his cub.

I've got a 100 so i shouldn't need to mod it. But yeah, I can see the happening. I'm a machinist by trade and we're pretty good at avoiding such incidents. Hint: I learned from past experiences

Work just called and canceled my free days for the rest of the week, between that and laying down 5 acres of hay today I guess I won't get to play musical exhaust parts this week either.

Thanks
Cory

RC Specialties

Hi Dave,

These are not on the site. They were a special order for a customer and I had a few extra made. They all have a 12mm thread.

Jim


Cory,
I am not sure how much back pressure you would get if you tapped this fitting.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

BTW, I checked on my order for a metal backplate for the 72/82 at the lhs. Still on backorder!

blw

My Feedback: (3)

BTW, I checked on my order for a metal backplate for the 72/82 at the lhs. Still on backorder!

Daniel-EL

My Feedback: (9)

I have a first run Saito 150, bought in the early '90's, which has been bench run (sort of) only, never flown. This is the most ornery engine I've ever owned. It throws the spinner, prop nuts and prop almost every time I try to start it. This after double-nutting the prop, too. I have never been able to get it to run long enough to get the needles set properly because, once I get it started and start tweaking the needle valve I will get a mouth full of spinner and prop nuts from the inevitable back fire. I thought about selling it, but I'm afraid I'd just be passing along this problem to somebody else in bad faith. Does anyone have any advice about taming this beast before I consign it to the junk heap?[:@]

The Raven

If it's spitting spinners and/or props, that is generally an indication of running the engine excessively lean (low and/or high speed needle). Richen it right up and then try getting the needles right.

Rudolph Hart

Good advice raven.I've just begun running the new fa200r3 radial,sounds sweeter than the best looking green eyed redhead i ever saw.Problem is it nearly always runs on just two cylinders.It's had three short five minute runs at or below four thousand.After the first run i popped the rocker cover off the cold cylinder and the intake pushrod had popped out of it's cup,fixed that and it still won't fire on that pot,rechecked the valves too.I was 5 turns out on the main as per the book,so tried as low as three and can't clear the cylinder.Plugs are good,fresh fuel...what am i missing??..apart from my pretty green eyed redhead

mike109

G'day

You may well have one of the early High Compression engines. They were built to run without or with minimal nitro. You can get them tamed by finding an engine expert who will put a shim (15 thou I think) under the cylinder. This makes them much tamer. A friend of mine has one which had all the symptoms you describe but when he had the compression lowered it was a different engine.

I have one of the later low compression ones and it is a big softy to run. Just get it wet with a prime, one back flip and it starts. Never throws props either.

The only Saito I have had throw a prop was a Saito 30 which was sitting for several months and when I tried to start it I under primed it and it tossed the prop off. Never did find the nuts.

Another I saw toss props was trying to tell us that its conrod was about to seize on the crank pin. It did seize soon after and tossed the prop in mid air. Quite impressive. It was a very old Saito 65 with hundreds of hours on it. It is about to get a new crank, conrod and be back in the air. Possibly some bearing too.

I am sure someone will chime in here with more detailed advice on your 150.

In the mean time, try it with zero nitro or no more than 5% and you might find it a completely different beast.

Mike in Oz

The Raven

I'm no Saito expert but a club member had an R3 radial (not sure the size). One cylinder dropping out was very common until the engine was fully run in. Despite lots of bench running with and without glow, he still needed to run glow drivers for the first few flights. Running the engine in whilst in flight seemed to best way to sold the dropped cylinder problem.

I'm sure owners of Saito radials can provide some more informed advice.

barry wetherell

HI, only just recently, got into Saito's, couple of 56's rebuilt one (mate sold it to me with a bent crank) 2 45 and a rebuilt 45s was a 45 but i bought all the bits to make it a 45s, not run yet, I am now in the process of conveting a 180 over to gas (petrol) , that's earmarked for a 80 " "Firefly " Vanguard models kit, any thoughts guys on the coversion????
Barry

barry wetherell

HI, only just recently, got into Saito's, couple of 56's rebuilt one (mate sold it to me with a bent crank) 2 45 and a rebuilt 45s was a 45 but i bought all the bits to make it a 45s, not run yet, I am now in the process of conveting a 180 over to gas (petrol) , that's earmarked for a 80 " "Firefly " Vanguard models kit, any thoughts guys on the conversion????
Barry

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Does anyone know where I can find pistons for a Saito FA90T MK2 ?

Horizon does not have them.

Thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 90T uses the same pistons as the 45 MK II?

Unless a piston is badly damaged, I'm sure you engine will run fine with the original pistons.

barry wetherell

Have you checked out E/Bay???? for 45 pistons, Phils hobbies might have
Barry

Daniel-EL

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks for your response, Mike, it makes perfect sense. Yes the compression is brutal on this early model. I'll see if I can get a shim installed somewhere.

Dan

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Dan, I have that same engine and a little education on your part will work wonders, it's a great engine with big %alls. When starting it be very careful to not get it too rich and then once started sneak up on the peak rpm very cautiously until you learn where it is. I like to sart mine with a starter without prining it in any way.. Set the throttle about 1/8 above idle and it will pick up the fuel and just gently start. If it is from about 1991 the compression ratio is 14.4 to 1 and will run really well on 5% or 10% nitro. It will run on 15 or 20% but extra caution is needed. I also have an .80 like that, it will actually run on Davis Diesel fuel unaided. I've never tried the 1.50 on Davis fuel but I'm sure it would fire right up on it. If you talk to w8ye and trust me, ship it to me and I'll break it in and set it up for you. No charge.

clytle374

Just realized that we never hit submit order so the order never went through.While we are at it what stack should we get for the 82?

Thanks
Cory

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

Hello Barry, You might want to review this conversion thread for 4-strokes http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_93..._6/key_/tm.htm there are a few other threads & many have accomplished this. C & H Ignitions is up and running again. Great new smaller & lighter ignition that is compatible with lipo bateries. Contact Adrain Ciulei who makes the new ignitions and has also posted on these conversion threads with some really creative work. He has also converted a FA150 [email protected] Good Luck, & keep in touch as many here are familiar with the conversion process.

Mike Brennan
Club Saito #723
T-man49 in Alabama

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

I have been through a lot of motors and have not yet found one that needed pistons unless a bearing cage had shattered or someone ran it extremly lean. Never from just wearing out from normal use.

As w8ye said above. If no gouges or chunks missing, clean 'em and run with what you've got.



On another note; Still fighting this 91s. Pulled the jug again and inspected the valves. Seats look good but both valves have quite a groove worn in them. They seemed to seal ok but I've ordered new valves, springs and tappets any way. Cam looks good so I'll keep it, but after looking through some the Esteemed Wm Robisons (and co.) posts, tips and observations I'm replacing those other parts of the valve train.

Hopefully I'll find my missing 1000-1500 RPM there.

Am I correct in determining that the consensus among the remaining "Saito seat of knowledge and expertise" (w8ye, hobbsy and blw) is NOT to lap the valves in? Just clean the seats with a fat pencil eraser in a drill?

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Thanks for the tips about pistons. I thought since I am replacing rings, it would be a good idea to replace the pistons. One ring broke as I was taking it off. It seemed to just crumble. It was very brittle.

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Let me guess which cylinder keeps going cold... facing the front of the engine, is it the one on the lower left? I've had the same problem with a 170R3 and it requires a glow driver for any throttle setting below 1/3 (more when you're running it rich for break in). I use SonicTronics/McDaniel glow drivers on all my Saito radials and use only NiCd batteries. NiMH will not work.

Rudolph Hart

Thanks for that mate.

Rudolph Hart

Yes it's the lower left cylinder,just worried about doing some damage.Temps feel fine on the other two while running.A local magazine has run one and i can't get anywhere near what he says to do at the moment.They ran 20% nitro and 22% mix of syn and castor,against my ten and 18% mix at 5000 for the first fifteen minutes.I might hop out to the shed and up the nitro to 20% and set the rpm to five thousand,will up the oil to 20% as well.Not suffering from a voltage drop across multiple glow drivers am using a single stick 2200mh nimh on each cylinder.

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

Why won't NiMh work?

NiMh works fine on my 4 cylinder engine. McDaniel says to use either one on their latest 4 cylinder driver.

Bob

Rudolph Hart

I don't run on board glo with any of my singles or the 182 twin,they run fine like that.I have read some threads here tho and it seems to be a world of pain for some.If anyone here can recommend a proven setup you can run off the onboard flight pack i would be pleased to hear of it as i may need to run one on the 200r3 initially.It's going into a blackhorse 120 size texan and what with retracts and all i'll have my hands busy enough on the test flight without worrying about a deadstick,we have short runway approaches here.I've just run a litre of 20% nitro 15% klotz and 5% castor thru the engine and it's firing on all three above 4000rpm.Last run was at 6500 and i could take the glow stick i'd left on one cylinder off,no problems.Just how much bench time do you guys think i'll need for it to settle down a bit and does anyone have an approx main needle setting for the 170 or 200?.Reason i ask is that the engine test reviewer said he was running 4.75 turns out,figured that may be a typo?? but will want to start leaning it off shortly.Cheers