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Old 10-09-2011, 03:52 PM
  #21026  
hsukaria
 
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How about putting a 90 degree bend on the engine exhaust port, and then the muffler can remain completely inside the cowl pointing straight down? Looks like it would fit that way?
Old 10-09-2011, 04:06 PM
  #21027  
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A Turboheader is the way to go IMO. You could use a 90 degree from them and then the 45 extention from saito to get the Turboheader behind the engine and pointing down. Then the only cutting in the cowl would be in the bottom where it will be less noticed. You would be surrprised how close to the engine you can get it all. Then the hole for the Turboheader can double as extra cooling exit area.
Old 10-09-2011, 04:20 PM
  #21028  
N1EDM
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Where can I get some dimensions for that Turboheader, and some pricing?

I'll have to measure inside the cowl to see how that is going to fit.

It sure would be a lot simpler if they made a header that was about 1/4" longer than the one that ships with the engine

Bob
Old 10-09-2011, 04:33 PM
  #21029  
w8ye
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PM the manufacturer

http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/...TOKEN=15919691

http://rcspecialties.net/

Old 10-09-2011, 04:38 PM
  #21030  
RC Specialties
 
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Bob,

You can go to our site at rcspecialties.net and view the gallery. We also have a straight extension that is about 1 1/4 inches long that may help. Drop me a message and we may be able to help.

Jim
Old 10-09-2011, 07:22 PM
  #21031  
STOKEY
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What size 3 blade prop would one recommend for a saito FA100?? Its in a Hanger 9 Pulse XT60. Need a little more ground clearance and thought a 3 blade might do it.

Thanks to anyone!
Old 10-10-2011, 02:37 AM
  #21032  
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A 12x8 three blade should do it.
Old 10-10-2011, 01:30 PM
  #21033  
charlie1960
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Great Rods A'knockin'...
Isnt that 12 a bit small for a 100???
I only ask because i get 9500-9700 with a 13x8x3
and 9000-9200 with a 14x7x3.
Old 10-10-2011, 01:47 PM
  #21034  
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I'm going to do some measuring... thanks for all the advice.

Bob
Old 10-10-2011, 02:49 PM
  #21035  
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Bob,

I ran a MA 14x7x3 on my Hanger 9 Corsair with a FA-100 for awhile. It ran in the low nine's. I went back to a two blade because I didn't get the speed I wanted. It did fly well though.It is probably close to the performance of a 12x8x3.

Jim

This post was for Stokey not Bob. Sorry!
Old 10-10-2011, 03:24 PM
  #21036  
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Charlie, you must be using the skinny bladed Master Airscrew 13x8 3b, I should have said I had in mind the Graupner 12x8 3b. Don't be tempted to go for the 12.5x7 3 bladed Graupner, it is one hard turning prop.
Old 10-11-2011, 12:15 AM
  #21037  
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ORIGINAL: Old Fart

You might find it easier to use a short piece of flex pipe and leave the muffler off,save you cutting the cowl at all.

In this case,

where will he install the nipple for the back pressure to the tank;

Or it is not necessary;
Old 10-11-2011, 04:21 AM
  #21038  
Rudolph Hart
 
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On the saito flex pipes the pressure nipple is already there.RC specialties also do a nice 90 degree bend which he would need anyway,but not for the standard muffler as it would not solve the problem.
Old 10-11-2011, 01:10 PM
  #21039  
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There is a model of Saito flex pipe that doesn't have the pressure nipple/fitting.
Old 10-11-2011, 01:15 PM
  #21040  
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ORIGINAL: blw

There is a model of Saito flex pipe that doesn't have the pressure nipple/fitting.
Would that be part of a pair of flex pipes used with twins in that only one needs a nipple?

Best regards, Richard
Old 10-11-2011, 04:57 PM
  #21041  
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yes
Old 10-11-2011, 05:19 PM
  #21042  
N1EDM
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Hi OF

I have the 90-degree RC Specialties fitting on order. I'll let you know how it comes out, and see if my measurements were good.

Bob
Old 10-11-2011, 07:06 PM
  #21043  
jknox
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Does the pointy end of the pushrod go up - toward the rocker arm?  The PDF diagram doesn't show enough detail to tell, but the ends of the rod seem to match the receptacles best with the pointy end up.

And, does the piston go in either way?  It doesn't appear offset like some of the 2-strokes I've worked on.

Thanks
Old 10-12-2011, 03:18 AM
  #21044  
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Yes they do and it helps to put them back the on the same side they came out of.

If you did'nt take the rod off the piston just fit it back in the right way round,as it came out.
Old 10-12-2011, 03:37 AM
  #21045  
w8ye
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The connecting rod, on the big end bearing, the side that goes towards the crankshaft counter weight, has a champher or taper.

The opposite side, the bore is straight.
Old 10-12-2011, 04:49 AM
  #21046  
Hobbsy
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Here's a picture of what Jim said
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Old 10-12-2011, 11:01 AM
  #21047  
Linkan2
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Old 10-12-2011, 11:44 AM
  #21048  
hsukaria
 
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ORIGINAL: Linkan2


Dude!!
Old 10-12-2011, 04:12 PM
  #21049  
jknox
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Old Fart, w8ye, Hobbsy, Thank You Gentlemen. I'm very happy to have a resource to do it right without having to learn the hard way. Is there any more I should know regarding left/right, correct/incorrect in reassembly of the small/medium singles? I've found setting the cam timing in earlier posts in this thread, I've got the valve spring/retainer installation, and now the pushrods, and the connecting rod big end. I've got a thrust plate puller coming from central hobby. I assume the rocker arms are ambidextrous and the big bearing comes out with the oven method.
Old 10-12-2011, 06:04 PM
  #21050  
w8ye
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Your assumptions seem good.


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