spaceworm

If you can ID the thread and length of the screw you need, and if I can find it locally in the HW store, I will send it to you in a letter (what can it cost?) PM me if you want me to.

Sincerely, Richard/Club Saito #635

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I need a bit of advice. I have a Saito 82 mounted to a Cub. The prop is held on with the prop washer and a Dubro prop nut http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE180&P=7

While transitioning from low to high speed, I threw the prop nut and prop washer. I didn't have a double-nut on it.

I learned my lesson, so lets get past that. My question is: Does anyone have a nice, scale-like Cub nose treatment that uses the double-nut? For the record, the plane is a H9 Cub 40.

Thanks,

Bob

spaceworm

Harry Higley has a thin nut that can be used that is intended as a lock nut behind the prop nut that you are using . Following is from his web site, other thread sises are available.

Prop Lock,8 x 1mm [HIGLOC108] This item can be gift wrapped online
by Harry Higley
Category: APZ-Replacement Airplane Parts Price: $4.99


Richard/Club Saito #635

the pope

Thanks w8ye I was going to leave the car running so I would only need to start the car once. On a serious note I thought the set had more pieces to it but now I know Ill just get the set and be done with it ( Im not that much of a tight ar&e , well not usually ). Cheers the pope

the pope

Howdy O.F.and bless you, I had a battery bugger up and in the following whopsie I need new bearings and thought while the thing was apart I would put the new back plate on . I was surprised by how loose the bolts were so I thought I would get the new part with a gasket set and new breather nipple. I think the original plastic part was a mistake and they probably do to as its no longer on there engines. Cheers the pope

mudboger07

Does anyone know the size of the front and rear crank bearings for the satio 72, 100 and the 125? I need to replace them in the 72 and figured I would order a set for the other 2 mills while im at it.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Pope, those screws in the plastic backplate will only handle about 3 in. lbs of torque, 4 if you put a little flat washer on them.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Spaceworm, I'll look into that!!

Bob

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Mudboger,

Get your bearings here. Good stuff from good people at an excellent price.

http://www.rc-bearings.com/catalog/i...fa300c2a4b8c03

mudboger07

Thanks frets, I just ordered a set, hopefully they will be here before friday, there for my son's motor and he doesnt want to be without this plane this weekend....lol

spaceworm

Both Boca Bearings and RC Bearings have a cross reference for most engines that can give you this info. Various users have had good luck with either of these sources.

Richard/Club Saito #635

the pope

Howdy Hobbsy thanks for that info but I was referring to the bolts holding the backplate to the crankcase.Cheers the pope

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

So was I[8D]

spaceworm

Pope, I think it was those bolts to which Hobbsy was referring. Also, I think the screw holding the plastic backplate are a different length than those for the metal plate, but check to make sure. Good luck

Sincerely, Richard

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The screws for the plastic back plate are made like sheet metal screws

The ones for the metal back plate are the ones for the Saito 91

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, a few days ago I ran my .40a and used a Bolly 10.5x6, I didn't think I had an 11x6, yesterday I found a wood PowerPoint 14x6, what do you think? It is worth a run?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Here is a previous test of the FA 40 and the 40a
Fuel===WildCat 15% with 18% all synthetic
Prop===Bolly 10.5x6
RPM first run
Saito FA .40 rpm===10,744 with Fox Miracle plug
Idle rpm=========2,150

Saito .40a rpm====10,438 with Taipan 4c plug.
Idle rpm=========1,750
Switched to Fox Miracle
Max rpm========10,744
Idle rpm=========1,950
The .40a is a real ticker when it comes to idle with either plug.
Here is the 40a today using ta PowerPoint 11x6, same fuel as above
I need to add that the PowerPoint is so light that 2,500 was the slowest idle I could get and even it was shaky. I would never run that prop on a fourstroke.

Rudolph Hart

I think it says a lot for mas props and the smaller fourstroke re getting a reliable low idle.

Hi popey,care to elaborate on what drove your engine into the ground?

hsukaria

Can't blame the Bermuda Triangle if he's from Australia!!

mudboger07

Ok saito guys, Ijust got my saito 72 torn down due to a bad rear bearing and I have a couple questions.

1. The front bearing has a rubber shield on both sides, is anyone running front bearing with just the front sealed and the inner side of the bearing open to get a better oil flow?

2. the rear bearing is metal shileded on both sides is there any issue in running an un shielded bearing on the rear?

3. How are the curamic bearing in saitios as I am getting ready to replace the bearing in the 100 and 125 pretty soon.

Thanks for any info.

tenspeed59

My Feedback: (12)

How do i get my very own Club Saito membership and number???.....I own a .30GK that will be going in a Sportsman Aviation WACO bipe and the other Saito I own, which is a .91,is in my SIG KADET SENIOR.....who do I talk or type to to achieve membership in this fine and exclusive club?

I also added another couple of pictures of the test fitting of the Saito .30 GK engine,and on the progress on the Sportsman WACO .30 size Biplane too.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

The front sealed bearing(rubber) up front is fairly standard and when I have toasted the main from neglect, or purchased used motors with horrible mains, the front sealed bearing has usually been fine; replaced 'em anyway.

The rear bearing I've usually seen and tend to preffer is the single shield or open bearing. If I can get them, I like the SSball bearing with a phenolic or similar cage. Why use a coorosion resistant bearing and have the cage rust up? I've just had a new type bearing for my FA125 main which is a SS roller bearing with a phenolic cage. Haven't run it yet so, no report on performance. Have a standard SS in the parts bin just in case.....

Anyone else using roller bearings? Any pros or cons?

No experience with ceramics, though I've heard/read some horror stories of balls shattering and debris destroying the motor.....All anecdotal and just through the grapevine, so take it with a grain of salt. Heard similar of cages disentigrating and doing the same, but those have been cases of sever misuse and neglect; so, again, anecdotal....

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Send me $25.00 and I'll post your request for membership right here in this thread for BLW to see. He will then post your new member # and confer upon you all the rights and privileges therein contained.....[8D]

Welcome aboard.

mudboger07

Thanks Frets Ya the front seemed ok and not hurt, for some reason the rear had some rust and a few bad spots or I should say ruff spots when it turned but had not gone out yet, Im not sure why the rust I take good care of my mills with after run oil after every day of flying. The replacement bearing are open cage for the rear and imnto sure of the front but I think its rubber sealed on the front side and open on the other so It should be fine. time will tell. I have run ceramic in my rc car mills with no issues yet and they turn 3 times the rpms but for now I will stick to the ss bearings till I read up on the ceramic more.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The roller is not suitable for a thrust bearing, if the front bearing were held in with a circlip then you could use a roller bearing in the rear. This Seuvia 1.50 had a huge roller rear bearing and the front was held in by a circlip.