rye

My Feedback: (10)

hi
just took apart my satio 56 but i cant get the crankshaft out or the drive flange off, am i missing something i just did 2 46 fx os engines and they turn out great ,thanks rye

desertrn

Any body know where I could find a spray bar for and OLD FA-65?  I would consider a whole carb if there is one out there.  The brass has finally given up and I am not ready to retire it yet, even tho' I may be forced to. Ahhh...the smell of castor in the morning!

tenspeed59

My Feedback: (12)

WOWWWWW......a measly $25 bux huh??.....Heck if I wooda knowed that I wooda let the wife pay the costs .......HAAAA!!!!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

http://search.horizonhobby.com/index...d=13338E6CE48A

Here ya go RN

the pope

Howdy husky and Old Fart, When It comes to excuses anythings fair game. Being the pope Im pretty sure the devil had something to do with it but Im leaning towards the Bermuda triangle as a back up. Well O.F. if u really want to know I think it was a few things that combined to give me a headache. The first thing I quick charged the batteries the night before , normally I use the wall chargers and use a battery checker in the morning and before the first flight. I cant remember checking the batteries in the morn. or before first flight as I have a new tx ( hitec aurora 9 ) which has rx battery telemitry and I thought Id use that feature. Now I had about 5 flights and also had engine probs. so i had the plane turned on while I sorted that out. Now while I was flying around I heard a beep go off every so often and thinking it was the timer going off which it does every minute I never gave it another thought. I have since discovered the low battery warning makes the same sound as the timer. Anywho once the plane made a funny landing the batt was as dead as a doornail. So normally I can fly heaps of flights and still have plenty left in the tank (enelope 2000 ) so Im not sure what it had exactly to begin with or if its a bit dodgy and not willing to take a chance the thing has a new home in the bin.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Hobbsy, Good job I have a SS BB on standby. I'll not even bother to run this one up as it is, just swap the bearings out directly and avoid any potential damage.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Now, how the heck did that decimal point get in there!!![&:] Meant $2500...........

hsukaria

It's worth it!! I haven't had any crashes since I joined (2 months ago!!).

mudboger07

Iended up buying a puller to get the drive flang off on mine. after that the crank came ok easy.

rye

My Feedback: (10)

i try it even heat it up no go it wouldnt come off ,rye

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

To pull the front hub requires a device like this

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...set-30305.html

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/man...0999/30305.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00264F4QS/...SIN=B00264F4QS

hsukaria

Excellent!! Thanks w8ye for the links. I just purchased a set for future use.

rye

My Feedback: (10)

hi w8ye
i use a smiple gear puller i got from o'rellys a two finger one, she fits but the hub wont move should i soak it in something the bearings were really rusted ,thanks rye

hsukaria

I have used a heat gun before, like the one we use for heatshrink covering. I have also heat soaked it in the crockpot that I use to clean the engines. Just pull it out while hot and pull it apart.

spaceworm

With pressure from the puller applied as tight as you can, tap the screw/bolt of the puller with a hammer. (support the engine so it does not fall and get damaged as the hub and puller come free) The shock should pop the hub loose. Good luck

The Raven

I would highly recommend a bearing separator along with your 2 or 3 jaw puller. It's not expensive and definitely turns the job into a 1 minute exercise. If you search back through the thread you'll find some posts discussing this (knowing the thread is big).

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

There's been times that I have had to use all of the tricks mentioned here lately at one time to get a stubborn one off.= = = = = =Bearing separator around the hub . . . . . Puller cinched up tight pulling on the the bearing separator. . . . Heat gun on the hub getting it as hot as I can. . . . Hammer on the screw of the puller. . . . = = = = = Bang!!!! and it comes off.

GoldenAge

Just ran my Saito .56 the other day. It has been sitting in the garage on my 80" Quaker for 5 years. Started right up and ran fine. Love that engine!

hsukaria

I am considering buying a used small Saito, like a 50-56. I realize the 50 is older than the 56. But different are they, between the 50 and 56? Is the performance difference noticeable?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If you are familiar with the 56, you will notice the difference in power with a 50. You can use the same prop on both engines. The 50 sounds a little different. Burns a noticable amount less fuel than the 56, The 50 runs just as reliable as the 56.

I like the Saito 50 better than the OS 48 or 52. The Saito 50 has just a little more power than the OS 52. The Saito's needle adjustment works out much better than the OS 52.

Old Saito's will run forever if you don't break them too bad in a crash. You can put bearings and rings in them and eventually you'll have to replace the cam and lifters and maybe the piston. But you can run it the rest of your life if you don't hit the concrete or a rock with it.

I've seen a couple broken beyond economical repair but I've been able to save a few high time ones.

tenspeed59

My Feedback: (12)

Now i dont think that this being a family oriented forum and such that I am allowed to repeat what the War Department said when she read about your 'slight error'..........YIKES!!!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Richard, I know that not many folks are interested in the little Saito .30, I had two, a plain one and a GK, I sold the GK. This engine has flown on a couple of Sig LT 25s. I never really settled on a prop. Today I tried a Graupner 10.5x6 a Bolly 10.5x6, Bolly 10.5x5 and a Bolly 10x5.5, the Bolly 10x5.5 is going to be the choice.

Saito .30
Fuel=WildCat 15% 2/4 with 18% syn.
Plug==Taipan 4c.
Graupner 10.5x6 rpm===9,200
Bolly 10.5x6 rpm======9,450
Bolly 10.5x5 rpm======9,600
Bolly 10x5.5 rpm======10,000
Idle is a rock steady=====2,500 with airbleed slightly open from half way across the inlet hole.

hsukaria

Hobbsy, that's a cute little engine. Looks like the top half is Golden Knight, and lower half regular finish. Would a Saito 30 be about the equivalent of a 25 2-stroke?

Do all Saito engines have reversible carbs? Or are the smaller models not reversible?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

H-man, the .30 and the 40a do not have reversible carbs, I sent that engine to Bill Robison to examine for his Saito Notes. As a little joke he colored the cylinder black. I don't know how he did it but the finish is durable. Of course now that he's gone it is a treasure from a friend. Based on the way it flies the LT 25 I'd say it holds it's own against a .25 two stroke.

hsukaria

Thanks Hobbsy. Sorry about your friend.