w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If you can see the throttle arm, on the non-airbleed carbs, the throttle arm moves in and out as it is advanced back and forth between full throttle and idle.

When the throttle is out. It is open.

Enjoy,

Jim

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

davcos:

Looking directly at the throttle lever, turning it clockwise should take you to idle speed, counter clockwise goes to full throttle.

Bill.

davcos

Perfect...

Thanks!

gjeffers

ok, i ordered a cam, pushrods,tappets, and valvesprings

thanks guys

bldrums

Commander Robinson,
I have dissasembled my .91 with the exception of the valves. Those tiny "C" clips holding the springs on look like they may be difficult to remove and even worse to reinstall. I smell flyin parts and the temptation to curse a comin' . So before I proceed, what is your method to remove and reinstall those springs.

I appreciate ya!
Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge.

Bill ( Rummy ) Lowe



"Rum:

Popping the cylinder off is easy, and it's easy to put it back. Pull the carb and intake along with the exhaust and the rocker covers. Undo the four screws holding the cylinder to the crankcase, and then just pull it off. Pop the rockers, keep them and the push rods noted for intake and exhaust sides, out everything but the cylinder in plastic storage bags. Be sure you keep the rubbers for the tops of the push rod tubes. Send the cylinder to C. Lee with a check.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Do the clips in a plastic bag. When one goes flying, it's in the bag.

Do something to hold the valve closed like a broom handle up the cylinder or a rag packed in tight.

Then you can push down on the spring retainer and remove the clip.

Re-install the same way.

The valves in a old engine will not come out and sometimes the retainers will not come off because the top of the valve is peened over. You will need to use a whetstone to get the mushroom off the valve tip.

Enjoy,

Jim

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Bill:

As Jim said, a large transparent plastic bag is a good trick.

What I do is use a plastic handled screwdriver, clamp the shank in a vise and set the cylinder over it, the handle going inside the bore to hold the valves. Then with a haemostat handy I push the spring cap down with my thumbnails opposite each other. Then while holding the spring down with my left thumb pick up the haemostat and use it to grab the clip and pull it off. Then just let your left thumb come up to release the spring. Going back together clamp the clip in the haemostat first, push the spring down with the same two thumb nails. Again, holding the spring with one thumb use the haemostat to reinsert the clip.

Jim is right on another point also. There will be an edge turned up at the top of the retainer groove. An emery board, a flat jeweler's file, a small whetstone, a scrap of 600 grit paper, almost anything will serve to take it off. Just be sure to take it off. If you leave it and push the valves out an amount of metal will be cut from the valve guide bore.

Finally, if you lose one of the "C" clips it's no big deal - the new spring set includes two new spring caps and two new clips. But don’t throw the old ones away, sooner or later you will lose one, handy to have a replacement on hand.

Bill.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I notice that the 72 now comes with a extra gasket set for the intake tube. They must be having trouble? The 82 does not come with a extra intake gasket set.

look around on this link...

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...egory=Included

Enjoy,

Jim

bldrums

EXCELLENT THANK GUYS!!!!!

BQuartucy

This is for BILL R.
With my Saito 180 what type of engine mount should I be using? Hard or soft and forget the Hydes. I have the large plastic mount that came with the Great Planes Christen Eagle. I would like to use the Du-Bro #688 soft mount but there are so many different opinions when I do a search for "Saito 180 mounts", it is hard to decide. Your 2 cents would help.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

BQuartucy:

I believe in soft mounts. But except for the Hydes and some of the Sullivans, they seldom feel soft. As an example my Diablo has the engine mounted with rubber grommets between the metal mount and the firewall. To the hand it feels hard as a rock, but I've never had any fuel problems or radio failures with it. Keeps the high frequencies away from the air frame, and that's the important part.

The Du-Bro mounts are good, so long as you get the right size for your engine. The rubbers have to be replaced now and then, but that's not a high price to pay for its good points.

Great Planes had a really inexpensive soft mount, similar to the way I did the Diablo. It's a sheet of plywood with rubber grommets and bolts. You fasten your conventional mount to the ply, then mount the ply to the plane using the rubber grommets. I just wasted a fair bit of time searching for it, give Tower a call during business hours and let them find it for you.

My all-round favorites in soft mountings is the Sullivan line. They are a little less expensive than the Du-Bro for a similar size, and I just think they are better. You can check their web site and see what you think. Not hard to navigete the site, but [link=http://www.sullivanproducts.com/MotorMountsMainFrame.htm]here[/link] is the engine mount page to save you some trouble.

Finally, a soft mount is not necessary to have the airplane for a year or two, but if you really want the plane to last a soft mount is the first thing to add with one of the large engines.

I don't blame you for rejecting the Hyde mounts - they are WAY too expensive.

Bill.

Iflyglow

My Feedback: (79)

How good will a Saito .91 run on Omega 10%. I have allways in the past ran my 4 strokes on WC or PM 20/20 but do not need the extra power or expence in this aplication. I would like to burn the same fuel in this as I do in my big 2 stroke.

Chuck381

Bill,
Thank you Sir, I will see what can do, it is too difficult to check the valves every time since the engine is in a cowl..... Ok But I believe I have the correct low speed idle currently but will keep all the info you gave me in mind! You are the best and I appreciate all your help! Have a great day and let me know when you want to go out to the club (eglin aero club) and I will contact you and come get you. Oh yes I will bring the truck so we can get the large planes it if you like! Thanks again Bill!

Chuck

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The Saito 91 will run very well on 10% nitro fuel.

Enjoy,

Jim

Iflyglow

My Feedback: (79)

I am just trying to save a couple bucks. Do you recommend Omega, CP, or WC.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I use Omega and have done so for years and never had any trouble with it.

A friend uses Cool Power.

Couldn't tell you which is better

bldrums

RE: removing valves
The top of stem looked nice under magnification but I proceeded with the light filing. I see a very smooth surface with a beveled edge. When I start removing the valve stem there is some resistance as the tip enters the valve guide. If that is ok , I pull the valves on out.

Thanks yall
Billy-Bob Rummy Lowe, MD ( Master Drumoligist )

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The top of the valve stem is not as worn as the center so would be a little more snug. But you should not be take metal out of your valve guides.

Enjoy,

Jim

Jerry C

My Feedback: (6)

Well I'm on my 2nd Saito 125, the first on developed a real bad squeal after about 1 gal of fuel. the Hobby store replaced it with a brand new one. The first one put out, an awfull lot of oil, out the vent tube. Maybe 30% of the fuel that I ran thru it. This pretty much stayed this way even after I leaned out the high and low end. The new one that I have now and am running on the test stand puts out almost nothing, even when I open up the high and low needles as far as I can and still keep it running. It does put out air. Any thoughts.
Jerry

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The second one is pretty much normal. You go from one extreme to the other?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Bill:

Jim may have seen the top of the stem mushroomed, but what I see is a ridge turned at the upper edge of the retailer groove. Thi is what you need to cut off. As you are doing this, any mushrooming at the top will also be removed.

Bill.

Dealspeed

My Feedback: (17)

My FA82 Is running horribly, I pulled it off my harrier and stuck it into a Funtana 40.
Now its running very poorly, its transitioning really roughly and the top end is arratick like its either to lean or to rich.
Iv got close to 2 gallons threw it and have never had a problem with it, Im at a loss.
Could it be my valves neeed adjusting??
Im running cool power 30% and a 14x4W, its always been ran alittle rich and the bottom end is about 3/4 turn in from factory setting.
Any help would be awsome.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Dealspeed:

As the engine runs in it will need to be leaned, the tight engine needs more fuel, the looser engine will run poorly at the same setting. 3/4 turn in from the initial LS setting, after two gsllons, is probably slobbery rich.

You should have checked the valve clearance at least three times by now. Do it, then start leaning the LS, and check the HS as you go.

I've put you on the list as member number 232.

Bill.

rclement

My Feedback: (1)

dealspeed, Don't know if this is any help at all but my 82 did about the same thing. It ran great for quite a while then it seemed to change like something was wrong with it. I finally retuned it following a tuning guide and it started running great again. I think for mine what had happened was that the weather had changed so much that it was way too lean for the cooler conditions. Try retuning it and see if that helps.

Dealspeed

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks guys ill start messing with it [8D]