Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

One other option to brass fuel tubes and one I use nearly exclusively is aquarium air tube. It's plastic and if heated carefully can be moulded to fit any contour.

On my 3 line tank setups that fill/empty line is plastic and immediately inside the rubber stopper is bent to the lower left, where it then goes all the way to the back corner. This will allow for equal or better defueling than a clunk line and will not interfere with the fuel pickup. The same process can be done outside the tank to route any of the lines wherever you need them to go

One other advantage is that unlike brass the lines remain flexible enough for tank removal even with them routed all over forward of the firewall. Here is an example of this in Rare Bear. The only addition is to seal where the lines exit the firewall with silicone. This can be easily removed if the tank needs to be pulled.

Note: You can also see an example of the larger diameter case breather line. This is due to the length required to exit the cowl.

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Cougar,
Now that's a great idea. I had no idea that aquarium tubing would survive in a glow fuel environment. It seems to me I've heard someone mention this idea before but, don't know anyone currently running it as fuel line. Your's is the first installation I've seen using it.
The copper tubing that came with the tank is a bit small for standard fuel line so, I've zip tied all three of the external connections. I had a bit of small diameter tubing to use on the inside and it's holding tightly.
There's an tropical fish store close by and I may pay them a visit early next week. Any particular size or brand I should as for?

RJ

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Years ago I had a sample left from my old aquarium and took it to our local hydraulics supplier. If I remember correctly it is 1/8" poly tubing. I also lucked out and found a 50' roll at a yard sale next to a weed whacker and grabbed that. Enough for life, I think, (yeah right!). From that I suspect any store that sells fuel supplies or rebuilds small engines should have some, but the first choice would again be a hydraulic or factory supply house and or aquarium store as the cost should be far less.

Bring a piece of fuel tubing with you to check.

The key in heating is to SLOWLY bring the temp up around the entire tube till *** turns from white to clear. While bending put very slight tension on it to prevent the inside surface from kinking inwards and absolutely try to prevent twisting. Any problems like that and the I.D. will close up. During cooling hold it in place until the tubing regains the white tinge. I imagine something such as a wire slid inside to help hold the diameter may help until you get the hang of it. Have not tried that method.

You can also heat the end and press on it with a piece of flat stock to bump out the diameter to create a slightly enlarged retaining bulge. Just ensure there are no sharp edges.

spaceworm

Some fuel tanks come with plastic tubing instead of brass. I don't know the brand(s), but I think the tubing is Nylon? Good point on bulging the ends to retain the silicone tubes to the muffler/fill/engine. Good luck.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

I forgot to mention another neat little trick. That nylon tube also supports a common finely braided cable found at any hardware store. I fab my throttle cables from this as their diameter is far less than standard goldenrod and far more flexible. At the motor end I solder on a threaded end and simply run the servo end through an adjustable servo link. I have included a couple of pics of the method.

On the need for bulging the end. I rarely found it necessary as a good tight fit to standard silicon tubing is normal.

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Cougar,
Thanks again for the instructions. Your exlanations and instructions are clear and easy to understand. Sounds like a very good method of plumbing the fuel system. I'll be visiting the fish store very soon.

RJ

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

RJ, here is my just about ready to fly again Alpha 60, the .65 nestles in the perfectly, I need to put a couple more m4 nuts on the mount bolts. You gents advocate using what I lose in the trash. I use no plastic where I can source something better. Mybe I can win the to each his own award.[8D]

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Hobbsy,
Very nice install. Is that a copper extension on your Turboheader? How'd you get that to work? Is it soldered on?

RJ

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

RJ, it is pressed on there and the ring around the TH neck makes a bulge in the K&S brass tube. I would paint the pipe part black but it wouldn't stay back for more than a few seconds.

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Hobbsy,
I've successfully used high temp spray paint from the auto parts store to paint mufflers for my giant scale planes and it stays on just fine. Have you tried that? Of course, my mufflers aren't copper so, don't know how it would hold on that metal.

SUCCESS !!!!!! I started the engine a few minutes ago and tuned it a bit. She runs like a swiss watch and I love that sound. I have a Xoar 13x6 prop on it right now and it pulls strong. I'm also running PowerMaster 20/20 blend in it and it fires her right up. I've tweaked the low end a tiny bit and the high end too but, haven't put the tach on it yet.
Since my fuel system seems to be working well, I'll leave it the way it is. I'm a firm believer in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
It's mighty hot here today. Officially it's 98 F. but, the humidity will bring it up a couple of deg. for the "heat factor" (sort of like a chill factor). We're expecting 100 deg + temps all next week. It's a bit early in the year for those highs but, we are hoping for a short summer.
As soon as Icool down, I plan to run another tank of fuel through the engine and check the RPM. She idles fine but, may be a bit lean on the top end. I think the extra oil in the fuel will help protect it from maladjustments until Iget her tweaked the way she's supposed to be. It doesn't appear to be running too hot but, I'm not taking any chances. I'd rather run a bit rich than smoke the engine.

RJ

Ernie Misner

>>> That nylon tube also supports a common finely braided cable found at any hardware store >>>

What department would I find the braided cable in and what do they use it for. I haven't seen it but am interested. It's bound to be cheaper than from he hobby shop.

Thanks,

Ernie Misner

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

In the hardware near my house there are different size spools of braided steek cable right above the barrels of chain.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I may try some NAPA header paint in a day or two.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

I would have to second w8ye in his description of where it would be found. If having difficulty ask someone in the fastener area. It should be near there.

orthobird

My Feedback: (1)

Your preferred method of breaking in saito

RiverLarry

The small brade cable I fount is what thay use for hanging pic. frams on wall !!! R/L

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Ort, Saito recommends a 40 minute bench break in starting with 10 minutes a 4,000 rpm with the throttle at 1/4 to 1/3 open, then it is so vague I came up with my own breaking procedure that has worked on at least 40 Saitos, my own and others as well.

10 minutes at 4,000 throttle at 1/4 to 1/3rd
10 minutes at 5,000
10 minutes at 6,000
10 minutes at 7,000
Peak HS needle and leave at peak
Procede to lean LS 1/8th turn at a time checking idle and transition after every other change
Also remember to keep lowering throttle opening as idle improves.
At some point it will hesitate when checking transitin, go back 1/4 turn rich on LS needle and then fine tune it. Be willing to opt for the best transition as opposed to the slowest idle.
Getting this right will get you the best fuel economy since the LS needle controls about 85% of the throttle range.

The reason for leaving the HS needle at peak while setting the LS needle is that the HS needle seat is fixed, this eliminates one variable. If you try to set the LS needle with the HS too rich you'll end up chasing the LS needle forever and never find the sweet spot.

orthobird

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you
Will do

Looks like 3 tO 4 tanks of fuel before getting up in air

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Which Saito will you be breaking in? If under a 1.00 it will take about (2) 16 oz tanks.

spaceworm

Actually, the cable as described is not braided, rather it is twisted. Braided cable, which is much more flexible and usable for pull-pull systems, can be gotten in the fishing section as leader material.

The twisted cable used for picture hanging is much softer wire than the cable usually found with the chain and rope in hardware stores. I prefer the latter.

For pushrods, I use the carbon fiber arrows from Wally World, for a buck and a half apiece. However, they are not stocked except right before hunting season, although the ones I buy are target arrows and not hunting arrows. I guess some hunters do not need to practice off season?

Good luck.

mike early

carbon fiber arrow shafts for pushrods. good plan.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Absolutely! I buy a bunch when they are price discounted after hunting season. I know there are several construction techniques, but I use a hardwood dowel sized for the inside diameter of the carbon fiber shaft. I either drill a hole in the middle of the dowel, or make a groove on the side for the control rod/shaft assembly to fit into the shaft. The rod has a 90 degree bend for notching into a hole drilled in the shaft a about 2 inches from the end. CA will glue all of this real tight.

warbird addict

Stupid question here ,I've got an older style Sito 150 I just bought and cannot find the baseline settings for the lowspeed needle IE # of turns out from fully closed
high speed is fine but when I try to advance the throttle quickly it flops and dies so I know i need to be on the low speed needle adjustment.
Thanks in advance
Elton

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

If its a plastic throttle arm the starting place is 1/16" inside the throttle barrel, if a steel arm it starts dead even with the end of the carb barrel. When You get ready to set the LS needle set the HS needle at full peak and leave it there while setting the LS needle. The HS needle has a fixed seat so you eliminate one variable by peaking it. Set the LS needle by leaning in 1/8th turn incerments.

SrTelemaster150

Rustoleum Barbeque paint. It comes in flat black & flat sisver. Good for 1200*F