SrTelemaster150

Why aren't the rocker covers parallel?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Horizon doesn't have it yet, but I found an almost head on picture.

Woops, picture loader broken again.

nextofkin

My Feedback: (8)

FNQFLYER
I looked for Tool Yard and could not fine a tool that might work, the tool that I think will work is made like a small hole bore gage if you have a link we would be thank full.
Thanks
nestofkin

Rudolph Hart

The rocker covers are angled out on my fg57 too.

FNQFLYER

Re rocker covers they conform with the rocker arms which is a result of the position of the valves.
Re the tool yard thing, nextofkin, you are right they are sort of ball guages.  Mine are called bush removing tools, you can also find them in the general and aerospace sections of the Snapon book and Aircraft Spruce and Specialities (I think).  I bought my last set (which my deviate son, (he is a fling wing engineer not fixed) promptly appropriated from me and then ran away to Timor with 5 AVN Reg.

FNQFLYER

With regard to this bearing removal thing I also convert various sizes of Allen keys to modified "hooks" that I use to prise the bearings loose.  In the case of blind bearing removal, the lathe is use to round of the shank enf and then threaded to take a nut and then a suitable version of a slap hammer is used to dislodge said errant bearing or bush.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Amazing the number of solutions offered up for straightening cranks and bearing removal. Personally I found both the type of challenge I like.

I agree most cranks only bend ahead of the sharp reduction at the front bearing. The cranks are more than strong enough in the larger diameter and depending on the manufacturer and type of impact, some seem more prone to bend than others. That's O/K as it also makes them easier to straighten.

However, I do NOT like hitting the crank, even with a brass hammer. Back in my teens I worked summers at Ford and one job was in the foundry removing the end bosses from the rough cast cams. The "Hot End" were supposed to feed only so many per basket, but found with many more they could bugger off to the cafeteria sooner. Made our job a lot harder. Anyway, we were supposed to whack each end journal separately. This became rather difficult at the rate they fed through, so I found one good smack on the center journal had both come off simultaneously. Woopee! This was great, until a few weeks later I sensed someone standing behind me. Turned around to see quite a few suits watching our goings on. One reached over and hit the emergency stop and asked us what the hell we were doing. I described what and why and then pointed to a row of overflowing baskets in the feed queue. They basically took off for the hot end to rip some new ones and I never saw them again.

The moral of the story is this: From what I gather rapid alterations or reverberations such as I was affecting there can create localized stress zones, (anyone familiar with Barnes Wallis?). Seems we created microcracks that passed through all subsequent processes and inspections, but came to light once the engines had been in service for ONLY a short time. I would suspect with the crank in the drill press or lathe a lot more would focus in that sharp reduction/prop drive flange area.

This is why I use the V block and dial indicator method. The notches in the V blocks are lined with brass, along with the end of the mandrel, but any hard composite such as Delrin should work just as well, (to prevent marking the base metal or threads). To straighten I have a dedicated bit from a mechanical press that uses gear action from the arm to force down the mandrel. All a bit crude and something could be fabbed even from a C-clamp. The key is to know how much to over bend the crank to have it return to rest in true. Another little trick is to know "Where" to fit the blocks and mandrel. Had some of the best machinists teach me the basics years ago. Still, with a bit of experience you can get the touch and it is surprisingly effective.

FNQFLYER, from what I gather you shorten and thread the allan keys. All of mine are rather hard. Would be interested in hearing a bit more on that little trick.

I've been off this thread a bit, (anyone saw the news regarding a huge accident a month ago in Detroit where two young children were killed? My nephew and his family)

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I'm sorry Couger, we had a couple of similar losses in our congregation recently, it causes hurt far and wide.

A couple of years ago Saito increased the included angle between the valves on the 1.25 cylinder to make it more hemi like. They also enlarged its cooling fins. w8ye has a couple of pictures somewhere.

hsukaria

Cougar,
I am so terribly sorry about your loss. I was North-bound on I-75 right after the crash happened. I saw the whole aftermath and it was quite heartbreaking. Again, my deepest condolences.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks, guys.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I'm sure your loss hit every reader at some level. We're all sorry to hear of your loss.

My father in law died 2 weeks ago. I only knew him for a few years, but respected him tremendously. He was in the big war. I'm really going to miss him every time the family gets together. I felt like I had known him all my life the first time we met.

FNQFLYER

Cougar 429, I to use V blocks for straightening, my old "tradesmen, instructors" would have committed inspeakable acts upon my person should I have done otherwise.
Re the allen key thing.  Firstly find the appropriate sized allen key for the extraction job.  I have used sizes ranging from 1/16 through to 1/4 depending on the job at hand.  I usually try to find a softer metal type (but have used high quality tool steel ones) because they are easier to cut threads on.
Now grind the short side down to a flat bladed screw driver type surface.  Keep it as cool as possible so as not to loose any temper in the metal.  At this point it can be used to either drive the bearing out or with the aid of vice grips (mexican torque wrench to some) pull the offending aticle out..  If resistance is encounered in the pulling type operation I cut a thread on the long side of the "allen key" and run a suitable nut onto it and use a slap hammer type device to extract the bearing (I move the tool around the contact surface so as not to cock the bearing in its casting.  (Slap hammer is a device used by panel beaters to pull dented panels on cars out to some where near their original shape, a weight on a slide rod with a forked end to go arounf the screw head or nut)   
Use of hear from your heat gun is mandatory during this exersise..
In extracting the bearings I usuall find that that littled blade end can be introduced between the outer bearing surface and the casting it sits in or if worst happens you can hook it inside the inner bearing race to get the bearing moving. 
It is a cheap tool that uses up surplus allen keys, hard part is locating them for the second use.
Good luck and I trust that explains the process to you.

FNQFLYER

Cougar, if forgot to mention a good set of dies are mandatory and if you are cutting tool steel you can expect to maybe "hur" the dies.  I have a set of tool steel type carbide and tungsten dies acquired from the old US naval / Airforce stores at Ton Son Nhat airport a few years ago.  They work a treat.

orthobird

My Feedback: (1)

i have a bent crank for a saito fa125a with a bearing used in one flight only.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Orthobird, sent you a PM regarding the crank.

jkr_1100

My Feedback: (15)

cougar429 I am from the Detroit area, sorry for your loss. this is very hard to deal with.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks everyone for your support. They finally moved his wife from ICU this week, but obviously neither can work. We've started fundraising efforts. RCU will not allow me to post anything directly. Not sure how annoyed they would be answering requests via PM.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Picture leader is working.

Cherokee Flyer

How are you holding the brass tube on that Turboheader? I have several and that looks like a solution looking for a place to be applied.

L.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

L, I'll have to ask Jim what he calls that ring that's designed to hold an extension, anyway, I very carefully ground it down to slightly larger than the outlet. I then selected a K&S brass tube that is a tight slip fit over the and a real tight fit over whats left of the ridge. I set up a couple of blocks of wood in my vise and press the tube on as far as it will go. I then trim the end at an angle to help its looks a little.
I did the same to this old Saito .40 that is not quite installed in an ACE 4-40. I put a crank vent dump in it just for fun.

PS, I ditched the Sullivan mount, as smooth as the .40 is it still shook like the proverbial dog passing a peach pit.

Rudolph Hart

Your lsn needle setting looks a bit rich in picture one

Cherokee Flyer

I do like my turboheaders, the guys all call them my "drag pipe" cause they sure make them Saito's go!!

L.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Hey OF, here is a poorer picture better perspective.

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

OOOOPS. Please delete.

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Icame up a bit short on exiting the cowl of my H9 DVIIwhen Iinstalled the FA80 w/Turbo Header so, Igrabbed one of those rubber(?)exhaust extenders (Icall 'em slobber tubes) and stuck it on the end and secured it with a couple of small zip ties. Now the exhaust exits about 1" below the cowl. It still creates a mess on the underside of the plane but, it's not getting in the engine compartment.
Wish Icould find a black one so, it would look more like an exhaust pipe. It's hardly noticable really and nobody has ever pointed and laughed so, I guess it's not destracting from the appearance too much.

RJ