Hydro Junkie

That works, I see you figured it out. Everything looks good to me, other than the lack of a drive shaft and prop that we've already talked about. Mfr02 may see something that I don't so I'm going to defer to him for the time being. I've got some repair work to do on this one, just in case I get to go racing end of next month:

johnberriman

Thats some pretty Kool stuff may I ask where you are located I live in Illinois

johnberriman

Thanks for your help good luck if you get to race

Hydro Junkie

I live roughly half way between Seattle and the Canadian border in western Washington. Just had a thought. Since you live in Illinois, that's IMPBA district 4. There may be a club close by that could help you out as well. Here are the ones listed on the IMPBA website:

D4 District Director Dave Halverson

195 E. Littleton Trail

Hainesville, IL 60030

(847) 613-8745

[email protected]

Marquette RC Boat Club Oak Forest, IL

Pond at Midlothian Reservoir
​167th & Cicero, Oak Forest, IL 60452

www.marquetteboatclub.com

President

Joe Lauletta​

[email protected]

Minute Breakers Model Boat Club Mendota, IL

Pond located at Mendota Lake Park

President

Gary Preusse

17W323 16th Street

Oakbrook Terrace, IL

(630) 279-2451

Quad City Roostertails Milan, IL

Mirror Lake in the Village of Milan
President
Pete Collinson
PO Box 901
Milan, IL 61264

(309) 737-5282
[email protected]

Riptide RC Boat Club St. Anne, IL

Pond in Village of St. Anne

President

Chad Greene

6793 Fern St

St. Anne, IL 60964

(815) 405-5236

[email protected]

johnberriman

Thanks man that awesome

Got RPM

The Spartan is notorious for overheating, especially the original version. If the motor temp is okay but the ESC is hot, the cause could be overly long total wire length from the ESC itself to the packs. The increased impedance wreaks havoc on ESCs and is a common cause of blown controllers. I’ve seen this on at least a dozen boats owned by newer club members. The OP can try shortening the pack wires, some packs come with overly long wires, I’m not familiar with the OP’s packs.

Or, the issue could be excess running at part throttle. The way BL ESCs work is by turning on and off very rapidly, thousands of times a second. Wide open throttle means on all the time, while part throttle means both on and off repeated rapidly. Any time the ESC is on it sees the full load on the motor, which when above idle speed is generally highest when the throttle is wide open at below full rpm. It doesn’t really matter that the boat is on plane because it is the part throttle running which is hardest on the ESC. The longer it is run at part throttle the hotter it gets - how long does the OP run before he brings it in? Time it, most folks are very poor at guessing how long they run. He may simply be using too much part throttle for too long...

The cure, if he doesn’t want to go full speed much, is to fit a smaller prop. This reduces the load on the motor as well as slowing the boat down. Another option is to fit a new, higher capacity ESC, but frankly I suspect that modifying the way he runs will solve the issue.


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johnberriman

I was running wide open most of the time I found the other day when I tried playing with it at about half throttle the motor got lots cool but no real affect on esc and you saying shorting my wires on battery could help the problem

johnberriman

These are how long my wires are I could shorten them quite a bit I didn't realize that could cause a problem

johnberriman

johnberriman

This is how long my wires are

johnberriman

I have timed how long I run I usually run a little over 4 min thats all the longer my batteries will last

johnberriman

I have timed how long I run I usually run a little over 4 min thats all the longer my batteries will last

johnberriman

The wires on my esc are as short as I can get them with the cap

Got RPM

If we accept the 4+ minutes of run time as accurate and the OP runs his packs down to 10%, then he is averaging 100-110 amps. That means his peak amps are well over that. It also means that he is right at the top of his ESC’s rated continuous capacity. Rated capacity (120 amps) is not absolute, plus it depends on run time. Why? Because the actual limiting factor for ESCs is temperature, not amps. Running for 4+ minutes at the top of the ESC rated capacity will generate plenty of heat, so the OP’s experience is not surprising.

He can try shortening his battery leads, but that will not gain him much given his running conditions. If he wants to reduce his ESC temperature then he needs to either shorten his run time or prop down.



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johnberriman

If I just buy a bigger esc that will fix the heat problem correct

johnberriman

If I can't even play with it for four minutes whats the fun it that I'll just buy a bigger esc that should allow me to run for at least four min

johnberriman

Could you offer any advice on a ESC that would handle the four min run time without over heating

johnberriman

Took her out again tonight to try a different driving style and I'll be it got so hot it unsoldered its self from the esc on the negative side had to wait for her to drift back to shore this whole boat thing is taking the fun right out of RC for me plus my batteries were pretty darn hot

Hydro Junkie

I'M BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I won't tell you what ESC to buy but I will tell you where to contact:
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com
As you can probably tell, all they do is electric boats

johnberriman

I'm about ready to lose my mind this boat thing is crazy all I want to do is have some fun its not fun watch your boat dead in the water I talk to OSE today they recommend getting the hobbywing seaking 180 but I got to ready some reviews and a lot of fellows were have heat issues with those I don't know much about them but I was looking at this seal series 200 amp one they have

johnberriman

I hate to say it but I thong I'll try running 4s batteries and see if heat goes way down but who wants to go slower thats no fun

Hydro Junkie

Actually, that might be a good way to test your ESC. If the heat does drop, then you know it's an ESC issue. As someone else said, you may also want to try a smaller prop and see if a lighter load makes a difference. That's one thing about boats, you will never be done upgrading, testing and playing with them. You saw the picture of my scale boat, that one is drydocked for repairs. I'm only building seven or eight more, along with three or four smaller boats. Just think of all the testing I'm going to be doing

johnberriman

But its the stock prop it came with shouldnt that be a factory issue I mean there selling them ready to run I havent changed anything except rudder and I can see water shooting out the side

johnberriman

I wouldn't think a guy would buy a ready to run boat but have to buy a smaller prop I would think the boat had to be tested wouldnt you I will try the 4s for sure all bet that will fix the heat issue that will tell me the ESC is just to small for what I want to do with it I want to grip it and rip it let that baby fly thats how all my cars and trucks are but they have the upgraded esc and motor

johnberriman

I'm sorry if I sounded rude Im just frustrated with the hole thing